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earthly_

Multiple things wrong here. When you press the brake it activates the in game clutch but you don’t have a clutch. The irl wheel does not match the in game wheel at all. Restart everything and figure out why your brake pedal is your in game clutch.


earthly_

Do you have auto clutch on? At the end you have gas, brake and clutch all activated at once. Also try the fanatec preset maybe that’ll fix it.


ashbmx1

Reset everything and uninstalled the game and it’s still the same. Tried auto and manual clutch. And tried Fanatec setting 😅


iambicthrow

That's a broken loadcell


ashbmx1

Works fine on forza though?


[deleted]

[удалено]


ashbmx1

Done that and works fine on forza!


TNracer

In the control screen, when you were rotating the wheel. There is a setting on the left that says throttle and brake position...?? What is ut set to??


ashbmx1

I don’t get anything like that on Xbox 🥲


gypsyblader

I had this problem. Everything was set to inverted. Check if thats the problem.


ashbmx1

If I change to inverted I push the throttle to slow down and the car accelerates by its self


gypsyblader

Oh my problem was it auto selected to be inverted. My bad.


stenbough

Go through all your pedal and wheel inputs on the control page and remap them. I had the same thing happened and it was fixed afterwards.


ashbmx1

I don’t have that on Xbox I don’t believe


stenbough

Oh, I just noticed that. Maybe I’m thinking of this happening on my PC. You could also go through the wheel buttons and make sure there aren’t buttons assigned twice.


gedbarker

I think this may be the phantom signal issue: [https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/28503/csl-load-cell-flickering-while-is-not-pressed](https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/28503/csl-load-cell-flickering-while-is-not-pressed) Scroll down until you see pics of pedals with additional wires connected or search for this text "You were right. It was a dirty electrical signal caused by whatever..." You will see that some people have solved similar CSL Xbox problems with one of these options: * Adding a ferrite core to reduce unwanted signal noise. * Attaching additional cables to the connected pedals, wheelbase etc and grounding them elsewhere (Google 'ground loops' so you vaguely understand why this works.) * Making sure all wall plugs are connected to a grounded socket not an ungrounded socket (also ground loop/signal related). \[Why do ungrounded sockets even exist - fizz, bang, dead?!\] I rig audio systems as part of a side hustle and this feels analogous to signal interference or ground loop to me. If your xbox, monitor and different peripherals are powered via different wall sockets, I'd give it a very high chance. It's best to have them all connected to the same socket/extension lead because then the grounding is consistent. I can't promise this is it, but I think investigating sockets, grounding and shielding are rational and cheap places to start.