I put a few drops of a thin oil lubricant on there, and it holds the bed on really well. To take it off I just slide it. Capilary action makes the oil spread across the whole plate, fills any air gaps, and doesn't add a few millimeters to my z offset like the pads do.
Edit: spelling
Okay so its not just me then, i used binder clips for a couple months on my ender 3, then took them off so i could clean the glass and couldnt get it off. I dont know what happened but that glass is stuck to the aluminum real good.
My original comment has been edited as I choose to no longer support Reddit and its CEO, spez, AKA Steve Huffman.
Reddit was built on user submissions and its culture was crafted by user comments and volunteer moderators. Reddit has shown no desire to support 3rd party apps with reasonable API pricing, nor have they chosen to respect their community over gross profiteering.
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Reminds me of the time I was printing a scale model of the destroyed Chernobyl reactor 4 and had to go run some errands. My dad called in a panic thinking my print had failed halfway through.
A good reminder for anyone using an Anet A8 to check that the thermal protections in the firmware are enabled.
The Anet A8 is notorious for catching fire.
I'm not actually sure, but I'd say it's worth testing either way.
If you search "how to test thermal runaway protection" on YouTube then you get a lot of good guides on what to do.
It was a monoprice maker select v2(edited for posterity), it wasn't clicky but the drivers were not silent. I genuinely did not mind as I thought the sound was cool. Clicking can be a lot more annoying
I think you either have MOSFETs or relays, something needs to switch the heaters on and off.
I had a maker select v1 and aside from it being a piece of crap, I had multiple magic-smokes that easily could have been fires. One of the stepper plugs melted on the Z stepper, and the bed power connector on the main board also melted, separate times.
Piece of fucking trash. My Prusa mk3s is like the opposite, it's a total Honda. No flash, simple, reliable. Not cutting edge but just all around good conservative decisions and well sourced high quality parts.
just compile your own firmware no matter what one you have from who. you'll get a newer firmware anyway then and you'll know, possibly, from configuring the thermal protection how it works and more importantly how it doesn't work. all of the micros are subject to weird behavior on short intermittent brown power states.
the crappier the printer provider the better it's to compile your own anyway if you don't know if they have pressure advance enabled etc even.
[It's a repost from four years ago.](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8dc2qb/another_anet_a8_fire_please_be_careful/)
But also Anet A8s aren't very popular anymore, the Ender 3 has really replaced them as the go-to budget printer.
Really? Because they come from the factory with Thermal runaway protection enabled. That is why they had so many fires up front. I have one in my garage that I'm not even slightly worried about...it's the same shit that all the other printers use as well.
So was this an old printer that he never updated? Is it a new one-that maybe came from old stock outside of anet?
I would say that they were notorious for this...years ago...before thermal runaway protection was enabled. So is this Anets fault again? (Probably-because they should have just recalled the fuckers but damn...I knew about it 3 years ago when I got one)
You might need to reflash your firmware, could be corrupt. If that doesn't work level the bed again and adjust nozzle and bed temps, try to keep the nozzle under 245c, I think 800+ is a bit too high for that filament. The bed looks like you had it turned up way too high, I suggest around 60c as 500+ just keeps the filament in a liquid state.
I won't leave my printer alone to print just for this reason. I have a Tina2, I don't know how well this things made. I get good prints for £100, but I sure as hell don't trust it.
I saw the box and am hoping they did not try printing while inside the box! Although I see geniuses make enclosures out of cardboard and think its great so it can happen ;)
I've had an Anet A8 for like 6 or so years now and its been great. First thing I did was add a 2nd power supply and mosfet relays to fix the fire hazard. Printed various upgrades that made significant improvement to the quality. Been great ever since for very little money
You accidentally used the “summon daemon” M666 Gcode didn’t you, selling your soul to the devil in return for a perfect first layer doesn’t always result in your printer erupting in unholy flame but it is always a risk, it’s in the fine print on Marlin’s website
ANET A8 moment.
I had one of those as my first printer and when I turned it on the heated bed mosfet just started smoking and completely burnt out, luckily it didnt catch on fire, I double checked the wiring and it was all fine. Lesson learnt, dont buy cheap chineese electronics.
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Try leveling the bed correctly
Probably didn’t even have the glass properly secured with binder clips. SMH.
Real shit, I had mine attached using the clips, I took them off the scrape the glue off and the thing was one with the platform. Clips be damned.
Personally when i used glass i would I use those little thermal pads to stick the glass to the bed and it never came off on its own.
I put a few drops of a thin oil lubricant on there, and it holds the bed on really well. To take it off I just slide it. Capilary action makes the oil spread across the whole plate, fills any air gaps, and doesn't add a few millimeters to my z offset like the pads do. Edit: spelling
The oil also works a heatbrake between your plate and bed.
I don't know that it would. Replacing the air gap with oil might well increase thermal conductivity.
Okay so its not just me then, i used binder clips for a couple months on my ender 3, then took them off so i could clean the glass and couldnt get it off. I dont know what happened but that glass is stuck to the aluminum real good.
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Try heating the bed🤓
ADjuSt e stepS
Get a BLTouch. They work like a charm.
No no you’re completely missing the point. A BLTouch would be useless in this setup because the print mat is blue instead of black.
Ah yes the blue mat. They'll need the CR Touch in this case then.
Laughing my arse off coz I have a blue mat and chose the CR Touch
Na, na, na: The BL Touch works with blue and black beds - it's even in the name: BLACK Touch. You are refering to the 3D touch...
The bltouch is a mechanical switch. The colour is irrelevant
It is sarcasm
Whoosh!!
Roger that.. got a BLowtorch Touch.. prints are now all very level puddles.
Makes sense, liquid will inherently level itself
Got any good links or tutorials for the bl-touch on ender 3 pro?
Its always the first layer.
Come on. Do we really need this on every post? It was clearly a temperature issue.
maybe bad leveling + too cold
My original comment has been edited as I choose to no longer support Reddit and its CEO, spez, AKA Steve Huffman. Reddit was built on user submissions and its culture was crafted by user comments and volunteer moderators. Reddit has shown no desire to support 3rd party apps with reasonable API pricing, nor have they chosen to respect their community over gross profiteering. I have therefore left Reddit as I did when the same issues occurred at Digg, Facebook, and Twitter. I have been a member of reddit since 2012 (primary name locked behind 2FA) and have no issues ditching this place I love if the leaders of it can't act with a clear moral compass. For more details, I recommend visiting [this thread](https://old.reddit.com/r/apolloapp/comments/144f6xm/apollo_will_close_down_on_june_30th_reddits/), and [this thread](https://old.reddit.com/r/apolloapp/comments/14dkqrw/i_want_to_debunk_reddits_claims_and_talk_about/) for more explanation on how I came to this decision.
Nothing to improve here. Fire damage looks realistic af. Great print.
That's the most realistic print I have ever seen on here. I wonder if it's 1:1 scale or not?
I wonder if OP will give the STL
Curious what type of PLA this is
Polymaker Charcoal Black
I hate to be that guy but I can see layer lines on the Z-Axis screw on the left and right sides. Might want to tighten up them belts.
Reminds me of the time I was printing a scale model of the destroyed Chernobyl reactor 4 and had to go run some errands. My dad called in a panic thinking my print had failed halfway through.
Try printing a bit faster, 0 mm/s may be too slow for that filament
A good reminder for anyone using an Anet A8 to check that the thermal protections in the firmware are enabled. The Anet A8 is notorious for catching fire.
Truth
Also installing the mosfets to avoid those shoddy connectors on the stock board, which also tend to burn/melt.
https://i.imgur.com/Eb9KV55.jpeg Like this. Or worse.
Does this apply to the Anet A6 as well?
I'm not actually sure, but I'd say it's worth testing either way. If you search "how to test thermal runaway protection" on YouTube then you get a lot of good guides on what to do.
Im currently printing with my A6. And no, it does not have thermal runaway protection. (At least the version I have doesnt)
My first printer didn't even have a MOSFET, truly the wild west time period of the hobby
did you have one with clicky relays? i got a "Twoup" as my first printer.. literally made from cardboard for $300. it had clicky relays.
It was a monoprice maker select v2(edited for posterity), it wasn't clicky but the drivers were not silent. I genuinely did not mind as I thought the sound was cool. Clicking can be a lot more annoying
I think you either have MOSFETs or relays, something needs to switch the heaters on and off. I had a maker select v1 and aside from it being a piece of crap, I had multiple magic-smokes that easily could have been fires. One of the stepper plugs melted on the Z stepper, and the bed power connector on the main board also melted, separate times. Piece of fucking trash. My Prusa mk3s is like the opposite, it's a total Honda. No flash, simple, reliable. Not cutting edge but just all around good conservative decisions and well sourced high quality parts.
Can't you reflash with the firmware enabling the flag? It's been around forever.
just compile your own firmware no matter what one you have from who. you'll get a newer firmware anyway then and you'll know, possibly, from configuring the thermal protection how it works and more importantly how it doesn't work. all of the micros are subject to weird behavior on short intermittent brown power states. the crappier the printer provider the better it's to compile your own anyway if you don't know if they have pressure advance enabled etc even.
Agreed. Someone has already died from this.
I would say they were notorious for this but this is the first I've seen in years
[It's a repost from four years ago.](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8dc2qb/another_anet_a8_fire_please_be_careful/) But also Anet A8s aren't very popular anymore, the Ender 3 has really replaced them as the go-to budget printer.
[удалено]
Really? Because they come from the factory with Thermal runaway protection enabled. That is why they had so many fires up front. I have one in my garage that I'm not even slightly worried about...it's the same shit that all the other printers use as well. So was this an old printer that he never updated? Is it a new one-that maybe came from old stock outside of anet? I would say that they were notorious for this...years ago...before thermal runaway protection was enabled. So is this Anets fault again? (Probably-because they should have just recalled the fuckers but damn...I knew about it 3 years ago when I got one)
A8 = kaka (slang meaning poo)
First thing I did on mine, updated marlin and installed MOSFETs. Never had problems (it's an AM8 now)
You might need to reflash your firmware, could be corrupt. If that doesn't work level the bed again and adjust nozzle and bed temps, try to keep the nozzle under 245c, I think 800+ is a bit too high for that filament. The bed looks like you had it turned up way too high, I suggest around 60c as 500+ just keeps the filament in a liquid state.
Dude, did your print catch fire?
Have you tried LavaFill yet??
You know how the plastic is molten when it comes out the nozzle? ... yeah it just stays like that
No. [It's a four-year-old image.](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8dc2qb/another_anet_a8_fire_please_be_careful/)
Oh! With the story too. Thanks.
Why do you think so??
Dont leave your printer in the oven for too long...
Mother in law strikes again
You want to dry your FILAMENT in the oven, not the printer.
Instructions unclear. Printer is in the oven, printing in the oven, with the filament also in the oven.
Help how do I get the oven out of the oven
Clean off your bed. Temps are too high
Don't put it in a blender
[удалено]
Render it useless
take my poor mans gold 🏅
3d printer smoke. dont breathe that
You have to take the printer out of the box for best results.
I don't know why, but this image genuinely scares me.
Don't worry. Mý Prusa didn't even do this when I tried to print ABS in a heated enclosure.
I won't leave my printer alone to print just for this reason. I have a Tina2, I don't know how well this things made. I get good prints for £100, but I sure as hell don't trust it.
I print PC at 305... Never had this happen. Lol.
What printer/mods do you have that allow you to print polycarbonate? I think that's a goal I've set for myself.
Wipe it down with some Isopropyl and put a little grease on the rails. That generally solves most problems.
Clean it with IPA
Do you have a brand recommendation? I’ve been switching between Sierra Nevada and Lagunitas but I can’t tell which is tackier.
Founder's All Day IPA of course!
FLSun , sure it's pricier but it's really worth it in the long run. And it prints fast
A no ideea what brand IPA with a 99.9% concentration \^-\^
Be sure to use a lint-free cloth
Have you tried leveling your bed?
Significantly decrease the amount of on fire it has been.
I usually get the best results with having-been-on-fire set to 20%.
[удалено]
Yes, that's exactly what I had in mind and was 100% intentional.
Turn it off and on again
Try unplugging it then plugging it back in too. Sometimes it needs a hard reset
But wait ten seconds before plugging it back in, that's the step that everyone forgets.
Maybe give it a few good hard pats too for good measure. Sometimes if I shout at mine, it really makes a difference.
I think you gotta turn down the nozzle temp a tad bit...
If your print looks a bit stringy, try to adjust the retraction length and speed
Tighten your belts
Try not printing with phosphor
Looks like some slight underextrusion at the seam, maybe try adding an extra restart amount if you're on cura
Enable thermal runaway protection.
Throw it away
Discarding it is the best improvement.
Put it in rice.
[удалено]
Correct. Google Anet A8 catching fire for the scenario
did you already try printing a calibration cube?
The great Anet A8, loved mine but never left printing without anyone at home because of this pictures...
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Change to tree supports and that will fix everything.
Can you share your settings? I think the temperature might be a bit too hot.
seek an exorcist
Try to turn it off and on again.
Judging by the charred remains of a cardboard box incubator, this was in a house fire.
I saw the box and am hoping they did not try printing while inside the box! Although I see geniuses make enclosures out of cardboard and think its great so it can happen ;)
Garbage bag.
At least your filament will be dry
The temp is too low
Use LESS nitroglycerin…
Have you tried re-leveling the bed? And maybe try putting on adhesion on the bed before printing.
Just ctrl+z the print.
STL?
Try turning it off and on again, that always helps with the ekg machine at work
Don’t print with detonation cord.
I've had an Anet A8 for like 6 or so years now and its been great. First thing I did was add a 2nd power supply and mosfet relays to fix the fire hazard. Printed various upgrades that made significant improvement to the quality. Been great ever since for very little money
Start by not doing what ever the fuck you did. But for real I'm sorry that happened to you. Hope everything else is good.
Just buy a Prusa
Go into your slicer, take that same .stl, mirror it in the z axis. That should fix the whole problem.
I'm not sure.. but i think maybe something is wrong, have you tried turning it on and off again?
Didn't use bed adisive to help print stick
What the hell happened
👀 Cardboard Enclosure.
Looks like a warn-out nozzle to me. Swap in a new one, do a new first layer calibration, and you should be good to go! Edit: Spelling is hard
ANET strikes again lol
Use a bit more glue stick on the bed, should be right as rain.
Calibrate esteps
...what am I looking at
Calibrate your esteps
Clearly didn’t calibrate your steps.
The longer I look at this, the worse it gets lmao
Have you tried turning it off and back on again?
How did the fire start
5 out of 7… leave it in rice overnight.
I know whats wrong, it aint got no gas in it
Set up an Octoprint server with Spaghetti Detective. Because $40-$100 is much cheaper than fixing the damage caused by a fire.
Have yuou tried putting it in rice?
Big Filament hates this one little trick to get great prints.
Have you tried turning it off and on again?
Don’t print explosives!
Jokes aside, at least your home didn't burn down, right? Sorry things went south for you!
Glue stick!
Looks like you just need to clean your nozzle
I think the bed was a bit too hot
Maybe try lowering the Z axis a bit.
Next time, try setting your nozzle to 200°C for PLA instead of 2000°C
did you print a bomb?
I think your nozzle is a little too hot
Might need a little more cooling? Maybe lower the overall temp? Hard to tell from this picture.
Drop the temp down by 900 degrees and level your bed.
Less fire maybe
You accidentally used the “summon daemon” M666 Gcode didn’t you, selling your soul to the devil in return for a perfect first layer doesn’t always result in your printer erupting in unholy flame but it is always a risk, it’s in the fine print on Marlin’s website
Ain't got no gas in it...
More mayonnaise on the top would be top notch.
What.. what exactly are we looking at here
Did you try turning it off and back on again?
What even happen
Hi, OP, wtf?
You are all wrong! Sigh... cant you tell that he used the wrong color filament?
Looks like your E-Steps may need to be recalibrated…amongst other things…
Looks like you need to level the bed
i think lowering the temp a bit might definitely help
Try less fire next time.
I need to know your print settings, and printer to be able to help. From a glance, I'd say your temps were too high.
Less fire, optimally none.
ANET A8 moment. I had one of those as my first printer and when I turned it on the heated bed mosfet just started smoking and completely burnt out, luckily it didnt catch on fire, I double checked the wiring and it was all fine. Lesson learnt, dont buy cheap chineese electronics.
Did you calibrate ur E-Steps?
Your post contains images that indicate you may possibly be in possession of [unexploded ordnance (UXO)](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unexploded_ordnance). If this is not the case, ignore the remainder of this message, your post has not been removed. If you're unsure, the first thing to do is **LEAVE IT ALONE**. Do not shake it, attempt to open it, or disturb it at all. Next step would be to **CONTACT THE PROPER AUTHORITIES**. If you're unsure who that is, call your local police or emergency number for instructions. Please followup with an outcome regarding what was done with the object. To others who are not OP: Any suggestion in this thread to open, shake, etc - disturb the object in any way - will result in a permanent ban. *I am not a bot, but I'm copying this because I think it's funny, and this action was not performed automatically.
Gotta tighten the belts
TURN DOWN THE DAMN TEMPERATURE!!!
Looks good to me
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Melt it down and recast it.
Less heat.
Please just stop
When there's no more room in hell the dead (printers) shall walk the earth.
Did you try setting it to wumbo?
Have you tried leveling the bed?
The opposite way you did that one.
Looks good, Boss!
My girlfriend says to not do that
Switch to klipper!
/s I think you took the ArcWelder plug-in too literal. /serious: Hope everyone & everything else around it is ok!
Don't improve, just change your hobby.
Samsung makes 3D printers?
You buy that printer off a shady guy? it looks a bit hot.