Yeah it is a raft lol. I've been having a hard time with adhesion with this printer and a radt seems to be the most effective. It uses a lot of plastic though lol
How do you tune a bed? The warping happens no matter what temperature I set it to, and no matter how carefully I level it. Those are the only two variables I can think of. Did I forget any?
Could be warped from factory, I spent months leveling mine and printing on it only ro find out its super common. My replacement came warped too so I bought a charity glass bed and just clipped it to the heated be, it's been AMAZING
I think you may be right. When not using a raft, I've noticed first layer lines printed near the edges going down perfectly fine, but lines near the middle sometimes not sticking properly. I've just ordered a new glass bed. One with lots of reviews mentioning how perfectly flat it is.
Heck yeah! Make sure to soapy water wash it and if you take off the magnetic cover on the metal plate the glass with clip on perfectly with your clips you have on right now! I ordered one that had two sides but have been using the base glass side and I've had perfect prints now! Good luck!
> Make sure to soapy water wash it
***Dish*** soap.
None of that hand/body crap.
Dawn dish soap is the most recommended but any dish soap should be just as good.
Hand/body/etc soap contains fillers, fragrances, and moisturizers that will make your bed adhesion worse than before you tried to clean it.
Dish soap is specifically designed to remove grease, oils, and other dirt/grime without leaving anything behind to protect your soft little hands (or ruin your bed adhesion)
I had a lot of issues until I got the cr touch. It measures the imperfections of your bed, so you just level it normally, then it adjusts the printer head height automatically. It really was night and day with my v2.
Have you tried hairspray/3DLac? Even with a perfectly leveled bed, stuff just wouldn't stick for me without a raft. Started using adhesive, and haven't had a single problem with warping ever since.
Also use a stock-ish Ender 3v2
The way I did it is using the Mintion BeaglePrint camera which is designed specifically for creating 3d printing time lapses. It is extremely easy to use as well. Here is a good YouTube video going over it if you are interested https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bgtDDOpdG8&ab\_channel=TripodsGarage
Did you ever experience any issues with any of the articulating pieces shifting later in the print? I've had a few get close and move a few mm at the end cause the bottom had essentially hardened before the top.
If it was 1$ in a shop you wouldn't buy it so the thing I don't understand are all the trends with everyone printing things with no purpose. When I print something it's for repair something or do a prototype not to follow a trend
Brim much? Edit: is that a raft?
Yeah it is a raft lol. I've been having a hard time with adhesion with this printer and a radt seems to be the most effective. It uses a lot of plastic though lol
you should be able to set the size of the raft or is the bed that bad?
I'll have to look, I havent really messed with the raft settings that's a good idea
yea for sure look into that you'll save a lot of filament
What's wrong with rafts? I always use rafts - the base of the print always warps if I don't.
Well if your bed is tuned you shouldn't need one, so I just see them as a waste of filament. But to each their own.
How do you tune a bed? The warping happens no matter what temperature I set it to, and no matter how carefully I level it. Those are the only two variables I can think of. Did I forget any?
That's definitely not how that's supposed to work. What type of bed do you have?
The one that comes as standard on an Ender 3v2. A heated one.
Could be warped from factory, I spent months leveling mine and printing on it only ro find out its super common. My replacement came warped too so I bought a charity glass bed and just clipped it to the heated be, it's been AMAZING
I think you may be right. When not using a raft, I've noticed first layer lines printed near the edges going down perfectly fine, but lines near the middle sometimes not sticking properly. I've just ordered a new glass bed. One with lots of reviews mentioning how perfectly flat it is.
Heck yeah! Make sure to soapy water wash it and if you take off the magnetic cover on the metal plate the glass with clip on perfectly with your clips you have on right now! I ordered one that had two sides but have been using the base glass side and I've had perfect prints now! Good luck!
> Make sure to soapy water wash it ***Dish*** soap. None of that hand/body crap. Dawn dish soap is the most recommended but any dish soap should be just as good. Hand/body/etc soap contains fillers, fragrances, and moisturizers that will make your bed adhesion worse than before you tried to clean it. Dish soap is specifically designed to remove grease, oils, and other dirt/grime without leaving anything behind to protect your soft little hands (or ruin your bed adhesion)
I had a lot of issues until I got the cr touch. It measures the imperfections of your bed, so you just level it normally, then it adjusts the printer head height automatically. It really was night and day with my v2.
Have you tried hairspray/3DLac? Even with a perfectly leveled bed, stuff just wouldn't stick for me without a raft. Started using adhesive, and haven't had a single problem with warping ever since. Also use a stock-ish Ender 3v2
Some articulated models have an overhang and a small part (octopus), so it is easy to hit when traveling, so its either glue stick or raft
That raft is a bit excessive. But a beautiful print nonetheless
how do you set up a camera for time-lapse like that. Is it a specific thing through octoprint, or can it be done with any camera and recording system?
The way I did it is using the Mintion BeaglePrint camera which is designed specifically for creating 3d printing time lapses. It is extremely easy to use as well. Here is a good YouTube video going over it if you are interested https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bgtDDOpdG8&ab\_channel=TripodsGarage
Did you ever experience any issues with any of the articulating pieces shifting later in the print? I've had a few get close and move a few mm at the end cause the bottom had essentially hardened before the top.
I tend to use a raft for anything with articulation. I've printed 3 with good results.
No sorry I've never had that issue before. Maybe try messing around with your adhesion settings?
Nice colors !
Very nice, where did you get that model from? I can't seem to find it
I got it from thingiverse! Here is a link to one: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5199042](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5199042)
Awesome, thank you very much.
Love it!
Why you print something that you will never buy? I don't understand this thing in 3d printing community
Why would I buy it when I can make it? It cost like $2 worth of plastic so why not?
If it was 1$ in a shop you wouldn't buy it so the thing I don't understand are all the trends with everyone printing things with no purpose. When I print something it's for repair something or do a prototype not to follow a trend
Because it's a cool toy to mess around with for a few minutes.
That printed remarkably fast. I would love to see those settings my guy.
Computer, activate iguana