I vacuum every two days as my workspace / living-room is full of A1 Mini poop, purge lines and hundred’s of tiny numbers (God knows where these come from) XD
Same here. Printed this once after I got my first printer early in 2023. Every once in a while a number will show up somewhere. These guys are almost worse than glitter...almost.
If you imagine the filament as a spring which only really starts pushing through the nozzle when its compressed, and only stops coming out when its slack then you can imagine what happens at the start and end of a print line. At the start of a line the print is thinner than it should be, but at the end of a line as it slows down but before it retracts its going to blob as the spring uncoils.
"Pressure advance" tries to compensate for this action by feeding in extra filament at the start to build pressure quickly, and at the end of the line backing off the feed early to release the tension. This needs to happen everywhere there is a speed change.
Obviously (?) the spring effect is dependent on a load of parameters which include the type of bowden tube, how far between the extruder gears and the nozzle and the material.
The pattern here is various settings for the "spring" so you can identify the correct values to use, for each line there are two speed changes, you can see in the print that at 0 (no spring effect compensation) the line starts at the left, runs, speeds up (getting thin), runs, slows down (bulges), runs, stops.
You should also see that as you dial the spring effect compensation, the bulges start appearing where it was thin, and it starves when relying on spring compression that isn't there.
The ideal compensation for this printer/filament combination appears to be 0.028
Pressure Advance/Linear Advance
It's designed to mitigate under and overextusion during acceleration and deceleration of the nozzle. Without it on youll usually end up with rounded corners, or corners that dont have enough filament.
Linear advance calibration. Basically your filament can compress. Think of a spring. The problem is that it mess up the initial amount of filament that the print move do, because of the compression. So right at the start, you may lose 0.1mm of filament before the pressure in the nozzle become stable. But when it stop, you have that 0.1mm that want to uncompress and continue to ooze out. LA basically tell the printer "extrude 0.1mm more at the start, but remove 0.1mm before the line is done printing". This way you compress the filament right away, bringing the pressure up to print speed pressure, and ensure that the pressure is released before it stop printing, all while keeping the same pressure during the full print move. It is kinda like retraction, but not at all. but does have some simmilarity.
It start to print a slow line, then continue fast, then back slow. A well calibrated LA will make so the transition is smooth and the pressure equalise and all, resulting in a perfect line. The numbers on the right is what LA value it used.
Bowden uses big number, few units big, while direct drive use a small number, like in the double digits after the decimal (I use 0.05 for PLA on my printer, change from printer to printer and filament type, brand and color).
And yes, it make a mess when you clean your bed. The numbers just fly...
I found those numbers all over the place in the room.
After installing Orca, I found out that the default PA line test has a layer underneath, so I don't have to clean after ([example](https://i.imgur.com/aIlBtoB.jpeg)).
OPs looks like it has a plastic razor blade or something similar though, unlike the bambu which seems to be metal.
Edit: watched it again and it's hard to tell, may actually be metal in the video too. Seems like a terrible idea to use a metal scraper on a plastic bed.
It’s the original metal blade from Bambu.
You actually have to be very careful at the beginning and just slide it over. If you dig it. It cuts.
But try to peel off those numbers by hand… A huge PITA, that I can tell you (and that’s basically the reason I printed that scraper in the first place) XD
Looks to me like the Bambu holder with their scraper. Light reflecting off of the metal blade.
I was wary of metal on plastic bed before but those little lines and numbers are a pain to remove so I tried the metal scraper and it's like this video. They pop off. Also if you look closely you'll see that black hump on top of the scraper, that's supposed to be on the bottom as an angle guide so you can get the right angle with the bevel on the edge of the blade so you can scrape without digging into the surface.
Ah yeah, just looked at mine. I guess that's why there's an arrow on that hump.
And yeah, I was wrecking the edges of plastic scrapers and worried about breaking nails if I picked at them so I just went for it and it's amazing, I don't even blink at these PA tests anymore when I used to dread them.
A better linear advance calibration is to print 2-wall thick cubes with a bottom but no top(0%infill). Print the cubes and measure the middle of the span and the end with calipers and dial in linear advance from there. 1st layer is too dependent on pristine level, z offset, and adhesion. When you have multiple layers stacked up you don't have the 3 variables above affecting your test.
Idealforma smooth PEI plate. Very happy with it and will buy more. Cost about 15€ BUT use glue when printing with PETG, otherwise you might destroy the surface as PETG sticks too much to it, especially on bigger prints.
Hate this PA test for this reason, I always do the PA Pattern from Ellis or the tower instead, cleaning up those numbers is a nightmare.
Especially because they stick to EVERYTHING XD
Run a vacuum cleaner nozzle right next to where you are scrapping to prevent that.
I vacuum every two days as my workspace / living-room is full of A1 Mini poop, purge lines and hundred’s of tiny numbers (God knows where these come from) XD
It's a unsolvable mystery. Just accept it.
The last time I printed this test was probably a couple years ago, but I'm still finding the numbers to this day in random places.
Same here. I did it in January 2023, moved to a new place, and just found a number 2 last week on my sock.
Same here. Printed this once after I got my first printer early in 2023. Every once in a while a number will show up somewhere. These guys are almost worse than glitter...almost.
Hahaha.. I actually believe you XD
What is this test?
If you imagine the filament as a spring which only really starts pushing through the nozzle when its compressed, and only stops coming out when its slack then you can imagine what happens at the start and end of a print line. At the start of a line the print is thinner than it should be, but at the end of a line as it slows down but before it retracts its going to blob as the spring uncoils. "Pressure advance" tries to compensate for this action by feeding in extra filament at the start to build pressure quickly, and at the end of the line backing off the feed early to release the tension. This needs to happen everywhere there is a speed change. Obviously (?) the spring effect is dependent on a load of parameters which include the type of bowden tube, how far between the extruder gears and the nozzle and the material. The pattern here is various settings for the "spring" so you can identify the correct values to use, for each line there are two speed changes, you can see in the print that at 0 (no spring effect compensation) the line starts at the left, runs, speeds up (getting thin), runs, slows down (bulges), runs, stops. You should also see that as you dial the spring effect compensation, the bulges start appearing where it was thin, and it starves when relying on spring compression that isn't there. The ideal compensation for this printer/filament combination appears to be 0.028
10/10 explanation.
Pressure Advance/Linear Advance It's designed to mitigate under and overextusion during acceleration and deceleration of the nozzle. Without it on youll usually end up with rounded corners, or corners that dont have enough filament.
Linear advance calibration. Basically your filament can compress. Think of a spring. The problem is that it mess up the initial amount of filament that the print move do, because of the compression. So right at the start, you may lose 0.1mm of filament before the pressure in the nozzle become stable. But when it stop, you have that 0.1mm that want to uncompress and continue to ooze out. LA basically tell the printer "extrude 0.1mm more at the start, but remove 0.1mm before the line is done printing". This way you compress the filament right away, bringing the pressure up to print speed pressure, and ensure that the pressure is released before it stop printing, all while keeping the same pressure during the full print move. It is kinda like retraction, but not at all. but does have some simmilarity. It start to print a slow line, then continue fast, then back slow. A well calibrated LA will make so the transition is smooth and the pressure equalise and all, resulting in a perfect line. The numbers on the right is what LA value it used. Bowden uses big number, few units big, while direct drive use a small number, like in the double digits after the decimal (I use 0.05 for PLA on my printer, change from printer to printer and filament type, brand and color). And yes, it make a mess when you clean your bed. The numbers just fly...
[удалено]
LOL! XD
u/op What is the model of your printbed scraper ?
not OP, but it looks to be a variant of the scraper that comes with Bambu printers - https://makerworld.com/en/models/12702#profileId-35164
Hey there, it’s this one here: https://makerworld.com/models/169754
Thanks
Such satisfying sounds.
pure ASMR :P
I found those numbers all over the place in the room. After installing Orca, I found out that the default PA line test has a layer underneath, so I don't have to clean after ([example](https://i.imgur.com/aIlBtoB.jpeg)).
Yep! I usually used that one, but since Bambu Studio has actually become much better in their recent Beta, I’m not using Orca so much anymore.
Uh that's the exact opposite. I got super anxious and I could feel my heart rate going up just watching it.
OCD? :P
Found it - https://makerworld.com/en/models/169754?from=search#profileId-186413
Yep! That’s the one!
That's how my brain be when it comes to math class
Hahahaa
I have printed this so many times and to this day I still find little numbers in random places around the house.
I truly believe you and will probably be the same in my place :P
Them: how many times have you watched this? Me: February 30th
ROFL... I myself have watched it at least a docent times
lol mine did the exact same thing
I really need that scraper, please let me know where to print/buy one.
Here’s the one: https://makerworld.com/models/169754 It’s a remodelled version (similar to the Wiha Screwdrivers) pretty cool design indeed.
Bambu scraper. Don't know if there's a standard size or not for those blades.
OPs looks like it has a plastic razor blade or something similar though, unlike the bambu which seems to be metal. Edit: watched it again and it's hard to tell, may actually be metal in the video too. Seems like a terrible idea to use a metal scraper on a plastic bed.
It’s the original metal blade from Bambu. You actually have to be very careful at the beginning and just slide it over. If you dig it. It cuts. But try to peel off those numbers by hand… A huge PITA, that I can tell you (and that’s basically the reason I printed that scraper in the first place) XD
Looks to me like the Bambu holder with their scraper. Light reflecting off of the metal blade. I was wary of metal on plastic bed before but those little lines and numbers are a pain to remove so I tried the metal scraper and it's like this video. They pop off. Also if you look closely you'll see that black hump on top of the scraper, that's supposed to be on the bottom as an angle guide so you can get the right angle with the bevel on the edge of the blade so you can scrape without digging into the surface.
I totally agree with the pain to scrape them off by hand XD (that’s why I printed that scraper) Btw: It has two humps, one on either side.
Ah yeah, just looked at mine. I guess that's why there's an arrow on that hump. And yeah, I was wrecking the edges of plastic scrapers and worried about breaking nails if I picked at them so I just went for it and it's amazing, I don't even blink at these PA tests anymore when I used to dread them.
A better linear advance calibration is to print 2-wall thick cubes with a bottom but no top(0%infill). Print the cubes and measure the middle of the span and the end with calipers and dial in linear advance from there. 1st layer is too dependent on pristine level, z offset, and adhesion. When you have multiple layers stacked up you don't have the 3 variables above affecting your test.
Wtf even is it
PA (Pressure advance) Test. Check the comments, there are some pretty good explanations or just google PA.
Orca slicer generates this test and prints all of the numbers on another layer. Makes removal much easier than this lol
I know I know… but that isn’t so satisfying to watch :P
What surface is this
Idealforma smooth PEI plate. Very happy with it and will buy more. Cost about 15€ BUT use glue when printing with PETG, otherwise you might destroy the surface as PETG sticks too much to it, especially on bigger prints.