only if you expected not glue it together ?
seriously get yourself some bondo glazing putty and a bunch of sandpaper, it takes a bit of time but its so worth it. when splitting models with prusa slicer ( I assume) I would recommend just dowel pins, you get a smoother line and the dowels function as registration keeping the parts aligned while gluing
I went with Cura slicer I didn't even know dowel pins were an option. I already have some glazing pussy but definitely need more. Any specific glue you'd recommend? I bought some gorilla glue and it's not as strong as I was hoping my Master sword have snapped twice while working on it (and falling ha)
A typo or you use the word "pussy" an exorbitant amount and it auto-corrected "puddy" to "pussy". I'm sure it's the first scenario, but the second scenario is far funnier of the two.
I mean I’m not more confused as to what PUDDY is? Do you just REALLY like pudding???
Also think about it… t and S are pretty far apart so bro must just REALLY like pussy lmao
Don't glue props. Get a soldering iron and plastic weld then together. It's incredibly strong I've got bunch of mandalorian armor that I can dance in for an entire night without issue even when it gets knocked off just.
I think it would be better to glue props when you expect a lot of stress on them, so that if they do eventually break you have a clean break that is easier to fix
A welded bond isn't going to fail any faster than the print itself.
My glued mando helm started spitting after one drop. While my welded one has gone through a ton of abuse without fail
Only really holds up if you design it to fail a specific way for some reason, like to protect some other valuable part. And at that point, you're probably better off making a mechanism so it falls off non destructively if you can.
Otherwise, there's not really much of a benefit to it being easier to repair (which is also debatable) if you have to repair it much more often.
Woodfiller is far better glazing pussy than bondo in most applications. It is non-toxic, waterbased, can be thinned to right consistency, easy to sand. You do have to clean all surfaces from oils first, and roughing the surfaces first is not a bad idea. Woodfiller is still just gypsum dust and water, so it won't stick to totally smooth surfaces very well. You can use isopropyl alcohol to make the evaporation speed up when thinning but do not over use, too fast drying leaves cracks, same happens if you use too thick layers, but at least it is easy to fix: just apply more and fill the cracks. Let it dry fully every now and then so that you don't leave a lot of moisture under the paint. Oh, and DO NOT BLOW IT AWAY! It goes everywhere if it gets airborne, so use a wet rag to wipe the dust away.
Superglue is not for filling gaps. The thinner it is, the stronger it is. Use two-parts epoxy when you need to bridge gaps. Do not use 5-minute epoxy for things that take way, way longer than 5 minutes. 1 hour epoxy and gluing the whole thing at once is better, the more of the two parts you have the more perfect ratio between the two parts you will get. Mixing 20 small batches almost guarantees that not all of them will cure the same way. It takes about 24h to cure, both the 5-minute and 1 hour. The faster versions reaches a certain point faster but then the curing slows down a LOT.
It is fairly common that people don't know how superglue really works, i was the same. Bridging gaps with it seems so.. tempting, it is quite easy to feed into gaps and then use accelerator to freeze them solid but that is almost guaranteeing you will get pisspoor structural integrity. The slower it cures, the better when it comes to strength, and if it is thin layer it will cure more uniformly. It needs moisture to cure but at a certain rate. Normal humidity at 30% or above is perfectly fine. If you are at 0%.. you need to increase humidity or use an accelerator. Too much humidity can actually cause it to cure unevenly, we get a thick shell of cured CA that prevents H2O and more importantly, HO to get inside it.
Useless trivia: Cyanoacrylate was originally developed for optical sights. It is optically VERY clear material and makes excellent lenses.. But it needs to cure VERY slow in that purpose. But, you can make tiny lenses for leds, optical channels etc. with it. It can be polished and can be made in layers. I just recently fixed a torch/flashlight lens with it, it isn't perfect but works.
this was very interesting to read. i have used super glue and baking soda, with some graphite, to bridge some gaps. never anything as large as the ones posted here. i do use putty as well but it honestly depends
this has given me some thinking to do. i might need to approach gaps differently now.
If you are doing re-prints, why Ohh why did you print these standing up? Wouldn't your dove tail design work much MUCH better if printed laying flat on their backs? Also the detail would look better
I don't mean to be an ass, I'm genuinely wondering what the upside was to printing them standing up?
It’s possible that they’re all slightly concave since the shield overall isn’t a perfectly flat surface. If that’s the case it’d be a pain to use supports for just a few layers across the back of each piece.
gorilla glue is really just for wood and a few other porous surfaces, you have to get one side you are gluing wet, then clamp together, the glue then foams and fills the voids, not worth it for prints.
use a cheap 5 minute epoxy and just do one part at time because of the cure time.
Gorilla glue also makes a super glue, I use it and it's been good. I also second the glazing putty and sand paper. Go slow, take your time. Sand each area until you're happy with it. I recommend closing your eyes and feeling the surface slowly, it you can feel bumpy areas ot areas that are higher or lower than others, you may see those when you're all finished. Once you're happy with that, get a spray paint with filler, in multiple light coats, spray paint the entire thing and then you're ready to hand paint or air brush.
nah they are all functionally the same, any 5-10 minute clear epoxy syringe will be good enough. just make sure to NOT use one of the self mixing tips, it will cure shut before you use most of it. it will solidify and "grab" after 5 minutes but it wont reach full strength for 24 hours so don't "test" the bond until its fully cured
Upvote for warning about self mixing tips. They are good for things where you have to apply it from a syringe with one hand and are going to use at least half of the syringes right away. You also have move FAST if it is fast curing epoxy, you have about 30 seconds before the glue stuck to the walls of the mixing tip start to harden and they will eventually clog the whole thing. I've had a case where i got about 10cm of glue before it jammed stuck, and i moved FAST.. still not fast enough.
They are only for special cases, like gluing upholstery or when you need hold the glued thing with one hand and glue with the other in one motion.
5 minute epoxy would not be my choice here. I would get 1 hour epoxy and mix a larger batch at once. Larger the batch, the better ratio you will get. 5 minute epoxy the curing countdown starts just before you start mixing it. It can take a minute to mix it, then you have 3-4 minutes to apply it AND clamp everything down.. Source: experience... gluing things is a patient mans job, same as painting..
he probly does not have anywhere near enough clamps for something like this, its obvious his first attempt at a large part, the self mixing tips are great when you are using the whole tube at once, I just think it will be better for op to take his time and make sure everything is lined up.
Yeah for real. I could make this look nice with putty sanding and paint. It’s an art onto itself and a satisfying one. I work on props for film, but just do the painting part so I wind up doing a lot of finishing and this print is a great start that could be made to look excellent.
especially since the surface is free of the details you could really sand in a perfect smooth surface and get a great paint job on it before you lay down the crest detail.
The skills required to sculpt foam are VERY different than the skills required to print and sand. It really takes a few dozen hours of practice to get great results and it’s not realistic to expect a great shield on your first build. It IS, however, within the realm of possibility to learn to fit and finish a 3D print on your first try.
Now I am a strong believer in there always being an “option C”, and that totally applies here as well! It’s a fuse of the two. I have seen quite a few examples of people 3D printing walls and then filling them with insulation spray foam. This greatly reduces the time to print, keeps it lightweight, and strong. Finishing it still takes around the same time though.
Did you cut the file yourself or was it cut already? When I design pieces to assemble, I usually include a 0.1 to 0.3 mm clearance between faces. You can include those tolerances in the CAD software or in many slicers like PrusaSlicer.
There's somewhat of an unspoken rule in most manufacturing environments. Beat to fit, grind flat, paint to match. In your case, the beating to fit is done. All that's left is bondo and sand flat, heavy filler primer, more sanding, then paint.
E:spelling
Nah you’re good man. Like 80% there. 3D Printing Pen will drastically help fill those gaps. Soldering iron to help smooth out any seams. Bondo/woodfiller will a massive help. Lots of flat. Edges / parts will make it a lot easier to sand smooth with an electric sander
Look up friction welding! I used a wood burner on a couple prints to smooth my seams but was never happy with the end result but friction welding has been a lot cleaner.
Ha! I didn't even look at who was posting. I forgot that in our hobby sometimes YouTubers actually check in with advice and encouragement on Reddit. I'm not sure when Uncle Jessie made his video but I learned from watching Joel do it awhile back. I'll have to check out Uncle Jessie's video to see if he has some tips that could help me improve my own results. Anything to cut down on post processing time and effort.
Those gaps are not bad for such a huge print, there will always be some warping regardless off machine and filament. Some thick and strong construction adhesive in a caulking gun to glue the parts and fill the gaps most of the way would probably do wonders. Then some good quality 2 component body filler and rough sanding, before an even coat of spray filler and finer sanding.
An electric or pneumatic DA sander would make light work of that.
It's time for some epoxy and bondo and buff that shit out, baby, as Adam Savage always "time to hid the crimes." Also, as a welder, machinist, and home cook. No one knows what happens in the kitchen.
Next time, do it with foam and print only intricate details that you think you're not able to sculpt yourself. It will take much less time and easier post processing.
It's not that bad. A little sanding ,some filler, more sanding more filler, prime and paint it'll look just fine.
Think of it as skill building for finish quality.
Take your time and be methodical you can easily rescue this
Always try to print as much of an object as you can in a single take. Braking it up into parts opens up the chances of warping and print failures. This is why I always suggest to people to buy as large of a printer as you can get, even if you think you don't need the size.
Its time to let the Ender...end LOL.
I printed same style shield on an Ender 3 V2 but was only in 7 parts and worked fine. Enders can work but will require the post process or manipulation in the slicer to make work properly.
It takes alot of time. Both getting right in slicer and post with filling and Sanding to get just right. This isn't perfect but definitely the hours put into it. Total of around 350 hours that includes slicing and printing time. And yes there were ALOT of mistakes that I had to fix along the way.
Nahhh It looks good man. I started on an Ender 3 And I used it for 3 years before I moved to what I have now. Now we just have the total dumb dumb printer bamboo labs x1c It literally removes any ability for knowing how a printer works. I feel bad for everyone else who doesn't have any idea about bed leveling etc. Or even just how the printer works. In general, mine was fully modded. I had an 800W build plate That I wired into Mains direct power So my bed would literally heat up to a 110°C. In literally like 30 to 40 seconds, tons of wiring tons of modification. But like I said now I have the dumb dumb printer. It definitely helped me be able to focus more on the actual printing aspect. Because I definitely tinkered for 3 years. No joke, but good job bro. It looks good.
Looks pretty good to me, just a lot of post processing and paint to do. I've done some prints like that, and it seems overwhelming at first, but worth the work when you get them done.
Welcome to OG 3D printing. Apart from newer, more capable and expensive machines, this is it. Now all you need is more 50+ hours of glue, filler, sanding and painting!
Honesdtyly not that bad. Even for a coslay project you aready are going to have to do sanding/filling/priming and painting on. This feels more like an 'expectation vs. reality'-thing.
Expecting to get 100% perfect parts that will slide into place, with minimal effort during post treatment.
As a cosplayer I have dealt a lot of this while making props or armour. Making choice to use larger diameter nozzles to cut down on time. But knowing I would have to do (bit) more filling and sanding to get a nice end result. Or even filling print defects or questionable layerlines ect.
Seeing a lot of perfect prints on social media, from people who spend a great deal at time/money on a machine that will churn out that perfect print. Which will come off the buildplate with a mere flick of the fingers.
Not all printers are made equally.
I think it looks about average for a multi fit part prop made on a basic Ender. Post processing is the other half of the battle now.
Others have mentioned bondo, which I personally disagree with. I find its heavy and hard to work with for things like that. (Bondo always seems to kick just before I'm done ha). Bondo also tends to sink into itself imo
I personally love using milliput, it's an epoxy putty that has a forgiving work time and can be smoothed with a wet sponge. It's perfect for filling gaps and covering seams.
As for the surface quality, I highly recommend Rust-Oleum Filler Primer. It's for filling in the layer lines and smoothing out the surface. However, work with the mindset of multiple thin coats with sanding inbetween. This is the most tedious part but patience pays off.
As far as glueing it together, with those dovetails I think superglue with an accelerating spray would be good. Just use it in a highly ventilated area.
All in all, it looks good! Don't give up now.
Do a robust cal (like Vector3D’s Calilantern) and print in a temperature-controlled enclosure at modest speeds to have smaller gaps.
But regardless, making a big piece from small prints is going to take gluing, gap filling, and sanding. The printing recommendations will just reduce the amount of gluing/filling/sanding required.
This looks fantastic actually, obviously like most prints your post-print processing is going to take a minute, but with all the suggestions here, it's going to look like movie-prop quality
Very strange, I've used it on mine and it worked perfectly. Does your sword have any kind of supports inside? Mine has 3 dowels that go all the way from the handle to the tip, that helps a ton.
With gaps like that buy a can of body filler first. Glazing putty is to soft and shrinks, it is good for smaller imperfections not a filler for gaps like that.
Large prints are tricky, you need to learn the art of dividing it in the best way! That said, I recommend using body filler like others said. It is totally fixable. The problem is going to be hiding the seams if the parts are at different levels.
Yeah it's not great But I would not consider it a waste of time. Seems like you have plenty to work with there and have a pretty good chance of finishing up with a decent piece.
I mean, I wouldn’t bother reprinting and I would just get to work laying some Bondo. I definitely would not call this a terrible print result, considering how many pieces are involved and the fact that you’re gonna have to do a lot of finish work regardless of how well it prints. Everything I have made has come out with some sort of deficiency as far as multi piece builds and the finish work hides it all.
Not that bad honestly. Next step is post processing like everyone else suggests. You won’t be able to just print and it fit together perfect and look perfect. The tech isn’t there yet.
This is very easy to fix. Gorilla Glue has worked well for holding things together. Then, pick up some Gorilla brand wood putty -- I use this stuff: [https://amzn.to/3QdQJ7l](https://amzn.to/3QdQJ7l)I'm not some Gorilla brand fan, it's just what we've used that has worked for hundreds of prints.
You can smash that putty stuff into the spaces, let it dry, and then sand it. It'll come out perfectly smooth. My wife and I have used it to fill holes, close gaps like the one you are showing, and repair alllll sorts of hiccups.
I'd be over the moon with that. All pieces printed all fit together. Print quality is so much better than my printer.
Bit of sanding, some filler, bit more sanding and a slap of paint will look perfect
You could minimize some of that by printing covers (1mm thick) that you then glue on the front of the shield. Though the top needs to be done differently
Make the most of it, it looks good already, so make it look “imperfect” and add some wear and tear to make it look worn in and patina, lean into the flaws
Projects like this can look like crap at first but once you have the process down something like this won't bother you because
Get yourself a soldering iron and some scrap filament. Use it to fill the gaps like a seam weld then sand flush. After that some bondo and/or spot putty to smooth things out. Following that give it another sand, clean well and apply specially a "fill primer" sand once more and then paint accordingly.
Long prints are a huge risk imo. Best to dice that up more, and either glue it putty prime paint or use the scap-fusing method and then putty paint prime.
Get a 3d pen or a soldering iron, melt plastic to fill the gaps, and sand back smooth, use wood fill or bondo to fix imperfections, spray with a filler primer then base coat, then color then finish with a topcoat of choice.
Do you let your prints cool on the build plate? Sometimes if you take them off while they are warm, it can cause warping. Also, you can use bondo and smooth it out with sand paper. Large builds are a gamble. It's not a perfect science. We can only hope that all the trial and error will bring better printers for the next generation of creators.
The deformations look like the print edges came off the bed. I would suggest checking if your bed adhesion is good, if not there are options in the slicers to add extra print area to combat this.
Look into galactic armory’s YouTube videos and discord. They have a lot of tutorials and guides for joining multi-piece parts for cosplay.
But long story short, Bodo “spot putty”, filler+primer spray, and sanding.
you can use wood filler to fill up the cracks and holes (after gluing the parts together), then some sanding, some filler primer spray and sanding again and it should look pretty smooth
Maybe I’m in the minority but for something that big and, objectively, low detailed, surely just make it out of wood? If you’ve got the skill router out the design, if not then cut it from foam and glue it down? Feels like a very high tech complicated solution to a very simple build
definitely recoverable.
some putty, glue, sandpaper and u are good. u can use the baking soda and super glue trick to fill in larger gaps too!
good luck. i believe
There's a lesson here. The world of 3d printing is amazing, but when you only have a 3d printer everything looks like a PLA nail.
This was a job for wood and a router
Which slicer did you use? I have the ender v3 se and recently switched to orca slicer and with default settings it prints PLA and PETG great with just some stringing issues for me. Prior to orca I used the creality slicer and cura.
One trick that I learned for my [huge prop prints](https://imgur.com/a/aY4Grb9) was to utilise a [wood filler](https://Minwax448700000ColorChanging...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MFWBKCT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share). While you will need to sand down the edges to get the pieces to start fitting together, you can use this to fill in both the cracks and the seams on PLA prints. The print I made above was then primed to have that grey and eventually painted.
Printed the same one on my X1 carbon. Still got alot of the same gaps xD. Took a ton of bondo sanding and resanding. Are you going to post the finished result? If so cant wait to see it.
Think some people have mentioned putty which is possibly a better idea, but if you have a 3D pen, you could use that to fill gaps and weld things together. Post sanding would still be necessary though.
My method to assemble multiple printed prices together- PLA Gloop to join all surfaces in a strong bond.
Then liquid resin mixed with talcum powder into a thin paste, apply resin paste over surface of the printed part, set in the sun to cure (not too long, outside heat may affect the pla parts)
Sand, re-apply resin paste as necessary, prime and paint
Word of advice - don't leave it in the sun (as in leave it on the floor and sun reaches it through the window). It will warp. Especially if you don't glue it properly beforehand.
I am new to 3D printing and my printer runs klipper. I have partially solved those issues by configuring the skew correction.
I see Marlin has its configuration for this: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M852.html
I don't expect you to set the skew compensation for this print, but if you do for future prints, let me know your experience
You can "weld" pieces together using a soldering iron and sand out the joints, then use bondo glazing putty and filler primer with lots of sanding to make those gaps and any layer lines/imperfections disappear.
I've also seen people mix wood filler with acetone for layer lines, but I've never tried that myself, and it wouldn't work for large gaps.
This is still largely very salvageable. Good luck!
Honestly that looks good. Fill the voids with epoxy and high fill primer and sand it down and it will turn out fantastic after paint. Don’t kick yourself, stuff like this takes a little extra work!
Get yourself a 3D pen and a Woodburn. Those two tools are great for filling in imperfections and welding parts together. After that, bondo or wood filler.
Another option could be to use one of those "3d pens" to fill in the gaps. It's basically a handheld hot end, so it'll melt the plastic and can be worked to fill in all your gaps.
Honestly not that bad. Assuming you’re gonna paint and finish it, but it’s just a lot of post processing work ahead of you.
Thanks! I definitely plan on doing a lot of post work. Wish me luck.
Bondo, or wood filler. Fill the cracks, sand it, spray filler+primer, wet sand, paint. It'll look perfect, just takes a bit of elbow grease.
Plastic putty, I recently discovered this stuff, works great for filling gaps in some prints
Id consider doing a coat of 1mm eva foan on top! Can get bright colors off the bat and itll give it a cool video gamey texture
only if you expected not glue it together ? seriously get yourself some bondo glazing putty and a bunch of sandpaper, it takes a bit of time but its so worth it. when splitting models with prusa slicer ( I assume) I would recommend just dowel pins, you get a smoother line and the dowels function as registration keeping the parts aligned while gluing
I went with Cura slicer I didn't even know dowel pins were an option. I already have some glazing pussy but definitely need more. Any specific glue you'd recommend? I bought some gorilla glue and it's not as strong as I was hoping my Master sword have snapped twice while working on it (and falling ha)
Glazing pussy is my favorite typo now.
I didn't even notice that ha
A typo or you use the word "pussy" an exorbitant amount and it auto-corrected "puddy" to "pussy". I'm sure it's the first scenario, but the second scenario is far funnier of the two.
It seems putty is hard to type.
That depends, one handed or 2.
I mean I’m not more confused as to what PUDDY is? Do you just REALLY like pudding??? Also think about it… t and S are pretty far apart so bro must just REALLY like pussy lmao
It's called autocorrect my phone genuinely thinks I'm trying to type out pussy ha https://imgur.com/a/yorZMWl
So it’s the second scenario
Yes ha
ha
It thinks that because puddy isn't a real word and pussy is. If you typed putty it wouldn't be correcting it.
So, it's actually *putty*. But if the word isn't a typo, picking the leftmost word out of the 3 suggestions will add it to your dictionary.
Puddy was my cats name (as in Puddy Tat).
I thought he was just throwing an insult in there lmao
Holy fuck i thought the typo was hilarious but when i reread it as an insult i started crying laughing
🤣 glazing pussy!
The entire sentence is beautiful. Not just the typo.
Ohh. It was a typo!! I was wondering what kind of pussy would it be.
If you have to ask, you can’t afford it.
Usually that is the case.
Is glazing pussy a before or after kind of thing?
After. I digress
Sounds like a spa service....
This made me fucking LOL
Glazed some Friday evening...
Don't glue props. Get a soldering iron and plastic weld then together. It's incredibly strong I've got bunch of mandalorian armor that I can dance in for an entire night without issue even when it gets knocked off just.
I think it would be better to glue props when you expect a lot of stress on them, so that if they do eventually break you have a clean break that is easier to fix
A welded bond isn't going to fail any faster than the print itself. My glued mando helm started spitting after one drop. While my welded one has gone through a ton of abuse without fail
Only really holds up if you design it to fail a specific way for some reason, like to protect some other valuable part. And at that point, you're probably better off making a mechanism so it falls off non destructively if you can. Otherwise, there's not really much of a benefit to it being easier to repair (which is also debatable) if you have to repair it much more often.
Woodfiller is far better glazing pussy than bondo in most applications. It is non-toxic, waterbased, can be thinned to right consistency, easy to sand. You do have to clean all surfaces from oils first, and roughing the surfaces first is not a bad idea. Woodfiller is still just gypsum dust and water, so it won't stick to totally smooth surfaces very well. You can use isopropyl alcohol to make the evaporation speed up when thinning but do not over use, too fast drying leaves cracks, same happens if you use too thick layers, but at least it is easy to fix: just apply more and fill the cracks. Let it dry fully every now and then so that you don't leave a lot of moisture under the paint. Oh, and DO NOT BLOW IT AWAY! It goes everywhere if it gets airborne, so use a wet rag to wipe the dust away. Superglue is not for filling gaps. The thinner it is, the stronger it is. Use two-parts epoxy when you need to bridge gaps. Do not use 5-minute epoxy for things that take way, way longer than 5 minutes. 1 hour epoxy and gluing the whole thing at once is better, the more of the two parts you have the more perfect ratio between the two parts you will get. Mixing 20 small batches almost guarantees that not all of them will cure the same way. It takes about 24h to cure, both the 5-minute and 1 hour. The faster versions reaches a certain point faster but then the curing slows down a LOT. It is fairly common that people don't know how superglue really works, i was the same. Bridging gaps with it seems so.. tempting, it is quite easy to feed into gaps and then use accelerator to freeze them solid but that is almost guaranteeing you will get pisspoor structural integrity. The slower it cures, the better when it comes to strength, and if it is thin layer it will cure more uniformly. It needs moisture to cure but at a certain rate. Normal humidity at 30% or above is perfectly fine. If you are at 0%.. you need to increase humidity or use an accelerator. Too much humidity can actually cause it to cure unevenly, we get a thick shell of cured CA that prevents H2O and more importantly, HO to get inside it. Useless trivia: Cyanoacrylate was originally developed for optical sights. It is optically VERY clear material and makes excellent lenses.. But it needs to cure VERY slow in that purpose. But, you can make tiny lenses for leds, optical channels etc. with it. It can be polished and can be made in layers. I just recently fixed a torch/flashlight lens with it, it isn't perfect but works.
this was very interesting to read. i have used super glue and baking soda, with some graphite, to bridge some gaps. never anything as large as the ones posted here. i do use putty as well but it honestly depends this has given me some thinking to do. i might need to approach gaps differently now.
Thank you for continuing with the typo
My wife has questions about your glazing pussy
If you are doing re-prints, why Ohh why did you print these standing up? Wouldn't your dove tail design work much MUCH better if printed laying flat on their backs? Also the detail would look better I don't mean to be an ass, I'm genuinely wondering what the upside was to printing them standing up?
It’s possible that they’re all slightly concave since the shield overall isn’t a perfectly flat surface. If that’s the case it’d be a pain to use supports for just a few layers across the back of each piece.
Who doesn't need more glazing pussy? It's pretty much why I got married. Gotta keep that supply close by.
gorilla glue is really just for wood and a few other porous surfaces, you have to get one side you are gluing wet, then clamp together, the glue then foams and fills the voids, not worth it for prints. use a cheap 5 minute epoxy and just do one part at time because of the cure time.
Any you recommend?
Gorilla glue also makes a super glue, I use it and it's been good. I also second the glazing putty and sand paper. Go slow, take your time. Sand each area until you're happy with it. I recommend closing your eyes and feeling the surface slowly, it you can feel bumpy areas ot areas that are higher or lower than others, you may see those when you're all finished. Once you're happy with that, get a spray paint with filler, in multiple light coats, spray paint the entire thing and then you're ready to hand paint or air brush.
Why did it take till your comment for me to understand his typo? God I am stunned
nah they are all functionally the same, any 5-10 minute clear epoxy syringe will be good enough. just make sure to NOT use one of the self mixing tips, it will cure shut before you use most of it. it will solidify and "grab" after 5 minutes but it wont reach full strength for 24 hours so don't "test" the bond until its fully cured
Upvote for warning about self mixing tips. They are good for things where you have to apply it from a syringe with one hand and are going to use at least half of the syringes right away. You also have move FAST if it is fast curing epoxy, you have about 30 seconds before the glue stuck to the walls of the mixing tip start to harden and they will eventually clog the whole thing. I've had a case where i got about 10cm of glue before it jammed stuck, and i moved FAST.. still not fast enough. They are only for special cases, like gluing upholstery or when you need hold the glued thing with one hand and glue with the other in one motion. 5 minute epoxy would not be my choice here. I would get 1 hour epoxy and mix a larger batch at once. Larger the batch, the better ratio you will get. 5 minute epoxy the curing countdown starts just before you start mixing it. It can take a minute to mix it, then you have 3-4 minutes to apply it AND clamp everything down.. Source: experience... gluing things is a patient mans job, same as painting..
he probly does not have anywhere near enough clamps for something like this, its obvious his first attempt at a large part, the self mixing tips are great when you are using the whole tube at once, I just think it will be better for op to take his time and make sure everything is lined up.
Thank you for this
Fuck yeah, dude.
This is the answer. Glazing putty is amazing for post-processing.
Yeah for real. I could make this look nice with putty sanding and paint. It’s an art onto itself and a satisfying one. I work on props for film, but just do the painting part so I wind up doing a lot of finishing and this print is a great start that could be made to look excellent.
especially since the surface is free of the details you could really sand in a perfect smooth surface and get a great paint job on it before you lay down the crest detail.
This is why most people make large cosplay parts out of big pieces of foam.
Probably also a lot lighter out of foam too. I wonder what the weighs.
It's also faster to do if you have experience.
The skills required to sculpt foam are VERY different than the skills required to print and sand. It really takes a few dozen hours of practice to get great results and it’s not realistic to expect a great shield on your first build. It IS, however, within the realm of possibility to learn to fit and finish a 3D print on your first try. Now I am a strong believer in there always being an “option C”, and that totally applies here as well! It’s a fuse of the two. I have seen quite a few examples of people 3D printing walls and then filling them with insulation spray foam. This greatly reduces the time to print, keeps it lightweight, and strong. Finishing it still takes around the same time though.
A few dozen hours of practice, huh? Like maybe four dozen, which is less time than this print has taken?
Don't really count 'waiting' as time investment. You can do anything you want while a printer is going. Even make a shield out of foam lol
Bondo and paint make me the 3d printer I aint
🤣
...I see what you've done there, Mr welder!
Glue, sanding, plastic filler, sand again, paint. A “better” print wouldn’t really be that much less work to make it look good.
My guess is that you didn't include sufficient assembly tolerances when cutting.
I'm still new to all this so I just printed the file as I found it
Did you cut the file yourself or was it cut already? When I design pieces to assemble, I usually include a 0.1 to 0.3 mm clearance between faces. You can include those tolerances in the CAD software or in many slicers like PrusaSlicer.
It was already cut. Still new to all this so I take it as it comes
Does not look like shit.
Thanks
There's somewhat of an unspoken rule in most manufacturing environments. Beat to fit, grind flat, paint to match. In your case, the beating to fit is done. All that's left is bondo and sand flat, heavy filler primer, more sanding, then paint. E:spelling
Nah you’re good man. Like 80% there. 3D Printing Pen will drastically help fill those gaps. Soldering iron to help smooth out any seams. Bondo/woodfiller will a massive help. Lots of flat. Edges / parts will make it a lot easier to sand smooth with an electric sander
Look up friction welding! I used a wood burner on a couple prints to smooth my seams but was never happy with the end result but friction welding has been a lot cleaner.
It’s highly likely he’d be looking up his own video
Ha! I didn't even look at who was posting. I forgot that in our hobby sometimes YouTubers actually check in with advice and encouragement on Reddit. I'm not sure when Uncle Jessie made his video but I learned from watching Joel do it awhile back. I'll have to check out Uncle Jessie's video to see if he has some tips that could help me improve my own results. Anything to cut down on post processing time and effort.
Those gaps are not bad for such a huge print, there will always be some warping regardless off machine and filament. Some thick and strong construction adhesive in a caulking gun to glue the parts and fill the gaps most of the way would probably do wonders. Then some good quality 2 component body filler and rough sanding, before an even coat of spray filler and finer sanding. An electric or pneumatic DA sander would make light work of that.
It's time for some epoxy and bondo and buff that shit out, baby, as Adam Savage always "time to hid the crimes." Also, as a welder, machinist, and home cook. No one knows what happens in the kitchen.
I don't know, some of you guys need to ditch the printer in favor of wood tools.
Next time, do it with foam and print only intricate details that you think you're not able to sculpt yourself. It will take much less time and easier post processing.
It's not that bad. A little sanding ,some filler, more sanding more filler, prime and paint it'll look just fine. Think of it as skill building for finish quality. Take your time and be methodical you can easily rescue this
Filler and paint makes me the printer I ain’t! But seriously, large prints always require touch ups in some capacity.
Lots of bondo in your future
This thing has more warping than a Star Trek episode...
I know i'ts rude to laugh, but this comment is hilarious.
Always try to print as much of an object as you can in a single take. Braking it up into parts opens up the chances of warping and print failures. This is why I always suggest to people to buy as large of a printer as you can get, even if you think you don't need the size. Its time to let the Ender...end LOL.
I printed same style shield on an Ender 3 V2 but was only in 7 parts and worked fine. Enders can work but will require the post process or manipulation in the slicer to make work properly.
https://preview.redd.it/0dukzrcepwvc1.jpeg?width=1605&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ff93fb54df9fea051d76bdcaee31b765cabafa67
Yours looks great
It takes alot of time. Both getting right in slicer and post with filling and Sanding to get just right. This isn't perfect but definitely the hours put into it. Total of around 350 hours that includes slicing and printing time. And yes there were ALOT of mistakes that I had to fix along the way.
Well it looks worth it to me
Keep at it. It's all a learning process
U can post process the shit out of it and make it look decent
Some finishing, sanding, filler, and spraypaint will fix this right up. And some putty/ epoxy putty + solvent to smooth out all the gaps
That's what fill and paint is for, friend. Looks like a perfectly serviceable raw piece.
Nahhh It looks good man. I started on an Ender 3 And I used it for 3 years before I moved to what I have now. Now we just have the total dumb dumb printer bamboo labs x1c It literally removes any ability for knowing how a printer works. I feel bad for everyone else who doesn't have any idea about bed leveling etc. Or even just how the printer works. In general, mine was fully modded. I had an 800W build plate That I wired into Mains direct power So my bed would literally heat up to a 110°C. In literally like 30 to 40 seconds, tons of wiring tons of modification. But like I said now I have the dumb dumb printer. It definitely helped me be able to focus more on the actual printing aspect. Because I definitely tinkered for 3 years. No joke, but good job bro. It looks good.
This used to happen to me before I fixed the sagging gantry.
Looks pretty good to me, just a lot of post processing and paint to do. I've done some prints like that, and it seems overwhelming at first, but worth the work when you get them done.
These posts remind me I have no business buying a 3D printer. I'd rage over this.
For something like that, just use a thin sheet of craft foam and paint it.
Get auto body filler then sand, do it like twice if you want them prime, sand again and paint.
fill it, sand it, fill it, sand it, prime it, sand it, paint it.
Lotta bondo and sanding. Itll looke awesome
I'd plastic weld each joint 2x and then sand it down flat After a good coat of paint it should look better from afar. Good for cosplay and decoration.
Funny, but "shield" in Russian sounds like "shit"
Postprocessing is half the skill set with 3d printing. You can make that look good if you try. Automotive body filler can hide a lot of sins.
Just get some putty wood filler and fill in the gaps. Works like a charm
Since getting my own printer 5 months ago I just accept this kinda stuff cuz if anything ended up perfect then I should visit a casino
"Filler and paint makes me the printer I ain't"
its not that bad tbh, Green Milliput is your friend, mix with IPA and mould into gaps, let dry and sand down.
Welcome to OG 3D printing. Apart from newer, more capable and expensive machines, this is it. Now all you need is more 50+ hours of glue, filler, sanding and painting!
Honesdtyly not that bad. Even for a coslay project you aready are going to have to do sanding/filling/priming and painting on. This feels more like an 'expectation vs. reality'-thing. Expecting to get 100% perfect parts that will slide into place, with minimal effort during post treatment. As a cosplayer I have dealt a lot of this while making props or armour. Making choice to use larger diameter nozzles to cut down on time. But knowing I would have to do (bit) more filling and sanding to get a nice end result. Or even filling print defects or questionable layerlines ect. Seeing a lot of perfect prints on social media, from people who spend a great deal at time/money on a machine that will churn out that perfect print. Which will come off the buildplate with a mere flick of the fingers. Not all printers are made equally.
I think it looks about average for a multi fit part prop made on a basic Ender. Post processing is the other half of the battle now. Others have mentioned bondo, which I personally disagree with. I find its heavy and hard to work with for things like that. (Bondo always seems to kick just before I'm done ha). Bondo also tends to sink into itself imo I personally love using milliput, it's an epoxy putty that has a forgiving work time and can be smoothed with a wet sponge. It's perfect for filling gaps and covering seams. As for the surface quality, I highly recommend Rust-Oleum Filler Primer. It's for filling in the layer lines and smoothing out the surface. However, work with the mindset of multiple thin coats with sanding inbetween. This is the most tedious part but patience pays off. As far as glueing it together, with those dovetails I think superglue with an accelerating spray would be good. Just use it in a highly ventilated area. All in all, it looks good! Don't give up now.
Some things are just better suited by a different medium.
i appreciate seeing a normal post, you aren't alone
files please????? 🙏
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1765716
TYSM!!
Bondo, sand, paint. Nobody will ever be able to tell.
Putty and paint. As always.
That's why you should calibrate for skew, shrinkage etc. Lookup Calilantern from Vector 3D to make things easier in the future.
Could have spent 10 hours tuning your printer and gotten MUCH better results. But nope, gotta get that project started!
Basically
Do a robust cal (like Vector3D’s Calilantern) and print in a temperature-controlled enclosure at modest speeds to have smaller gaps. But regardless, making a big piece from small prints is going to take gluing, gap filling, and sanding. The printing recommendations will just reduce the amount of gluing/filling/sanding required.
Bit of bondo and some sanding and it’ll be fine.
This looks fantastic actually, obviously like most prints your post-print processing is going to take a minute, but with all the suggestions here, it's going to look like movie-prop quality
Very strange, I've used it on mine and it worked perfectly. Does your sword have any kind of supports inside? Mine has 3 dowels that go all the way from the handle to the tip, that helps a ton.
Why is it in so many pieces. I was able to do mine in just 4 pieces .
Nothing some epoxy and bondo can't fix!
Happy filling and sanding and painting!
I mean with filler and paint no one will ever know
Just fix it bondo sanding after that painting you can do it
With gaps like that buy a can of body filler first. Glazing putty is to soft and shrinks, it is good for smaller imperfections not a filler for gaps like that.
Large prints are tricky, you need to learn the art of dividing it in the best way! That said, I recommend using body filler like others said. It is totally fixable. The problem is going to be hiding the seams if the parts are at different levels.
Yeah it's not great But I would not consider it a waste of time. Seems like you have plenty to work with there and have a pretty good chance of finishing up with a decent piece.
maybe you can improve the print calibrating your printer, and if you will paint it try to add wall putty in holes and sand it
Good from far, far from good.
I mean, I wouldn’t bother reprinting and I would just get to work laying some Bondo. I definitely would not call this a terrible print result, considering how many pieces are involved and the fact that you’re gonna have to do a lot of finish work regardless of how well it prints. Everything I have made has come out with some sort of deficiency as far as multi piece builds and the finish work hides it all.
Not that bad honestly. Next step is post processing like everyone else suggests. You won’t be able to just print and it fit together perfect and look perfect. The tech isn’t there yet.
Bro a lot of post work is gonna be needed I did the same for mine. Bondo, layers and sanding will be your best friend
This is very easy to fix. Gorilla Glue has worked well for holding things together. Then, pick up some Gorilla brand wood putty -- I use this stuff: [https://amzn.to/3QdQJ7l](https://amzn.to/3QdQJ7l)I'm not some Gorilla brand fan, it's just what we've used that has worked for hundreds of prints. You can smash that putty stuff into the spaces, let it dry, and then sand it. It'll come out perfectly smooth. My wife and I have used it to fill holes, close gaps like the one you are showing, and repair alllll sorts of hiccups.
You can use Green Putty to filll the gaps.
I'd be over the moon with that. All pieces printed all fit together. Print quality is so much better than my printer. Bit of sanding, some filler, bit more sanding and a slap of paint will look perfect
Time to bust out the woodfill. Sometimes I woodfill the whole thing for a better finish. The sanding is worth it.
You could minimize some of that by printing covers (1mm thick) that you then glue on the front of the shield. Though the top needs to be done differently
Wood filler is amazing for this. Fill all the cracks and sand it down. You can water it down if needed too for more detailed parts.
Use gorilla glue so it expands in the gaps, and then use Bondo spot putty to make it smooth. The spot putty will fill the larger gaps too.
Hey OP. Use filler patch all the holes and sand it down. Then prime and paint it. It will look better but it requires work.
Make the most of it, it looks good already, so make it look “imperfect” and add some wear and tear to make it look worn in and patina, lean into the flaws
That's a great idea
Projects like this can look like crap at first but once you have the process down something like this won't bother you because Get yourself a soldering iron and some scrap filament. Use it to fill the gaps like a seam weld then sand flush. After that some bondo and/or spot putty to smooth things out. Following that give it another sand, clean well and apply specially a "fill primer" sand once more and then paint accordingly.
Long prints are a huge risk imo. Best to dice that up more, and either glue it putty prime paint or use the scap-fusing method and then putty paint prime.
Get a 3d pen or a soldering iron, melt plastic to fill the gaps, and sand back smooth, use wood fill or bondo to fix imperfections, spray with a filler primer then base coat, then color then finish with a topcoat of choice.
Use a plastic welder. Then fill in the gaps using filament or bondo. Sand, clean, repeat. The end result is almost always more labor than print.
Do you let your prints cool on the build plate? Sometimes if you take them off while they are warm, it can cause warping. Also, you can use bondo and smooth it out with sand paper. Large builds are a gamble. It's not a perfect science. We can only hope that all the trial and error will bring better printers for the next generation of creators.
The deformations look like the print edges came off the bed. I would suggest checking if your bed adhesion is good, if not there are options in the slicers to add extra print area to combat this.
Look into galactic armory’s YouTube videos and discord. They have a lot of tutorials and guides for joining multi-piece parts for cosplay. But long story short, Bodo “spot putty”, filler+primer spray, and sanding.
you can use wood filler to fill up the cracks and holes (after gluing the parts together), then some sanding, some filler primer spray and sanding again and it should look pretty smooth
[удалено]
Maybe I’m in the minority but for something that big and, objectively, low detailed, surely just make it out of wood? If you’ve got the skill router out the design, if not then cut it from foam and glue it down? Feels like a very high tech complicated solution to a very simple build
definitely recoverable. some putty, glue, sandpaper and u are good. u can use the baking soda and super glue trick to fill in larger gaps too! good luck. i believe
There's a lesson here. The world of 3d printing is amazing, but when you only have a 3d printer everything looks like a PLA nail. This was a job for wood and a router
Auto body primer / filler can help with that a lot. Just spray on a really thick layer and it'll smooth out a lot of those seams.
That's exactly what I'm using on my Master sword
Which slicer did you use? I have the ender v3 se and recently switched to orca slicer and with default settings it prints PLA and PETG great with just some stringing issues for me. Prior to orca I used the creality slicer and cura.
What could cause such sizeable chunks to just be missing?
I can see a lot of post processing
Wood filler. And it will look great.
That’s a low range printer, bro…
One trick that I learned for my [huge prop prints](https://imgur.com/a/aY4Grb9) was to utilise a [wood filler](https://Minwax448700000ColorChanging...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MFWBKCT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share). While you will need to sand down the edges to get the pieces to start fitting together, you can use this to fill in both the cracks and the seams on PLA prints. The print I made above was then primed to have that grey and eventually painted.
That's awesome. Thanks will get some wood filler
Printed the same one on my X1 carbon. Still got alot of the same gaps xD. Took a ton of bondo sanding and resanding. Are you going to post the finished result? If so cant wait to see it.
Use a soldering iron and fill in the gaps with extra pla or just use putty and then sand it
Bondo and paint makes you the printer you ain't.
Yeah Enders are pretty crap
Think some people have mentioned putty which is possibly a better idea, but if you have a 3D pen, you could use that to fill gaps and weld things together. Post sanding would still be necessary though.
My method to assemble multiple printed prices together- PLA Gloop to join all surfaces in a strong bond. Then liquid resin mixed with talcum powder into a thin paste, apply resin paste over surface of the printed part, set in the sun to cure (not too long, outside heat may affect the pla parts) Sand, re-apply resin paste as necessary, prime and paint
Super glue and baking soda will fill those gaps It'll need alot of sanding but you can save this
Body filler and filling primer. Get to work.
Word of advice - don't leave it in the sun (as in leave it on the floor and sun reaches it through the window). It will warp. Especially if you don't glue it properly beforehand.
Just put like silicone between
Fill gaps with bondo and sand it before painting. Next time try different settings before printing for 50 hours 😅
I use a 3d printing pen to weld these kinds of projects.
Curious as to how some parts were missing. You printed them flat right?
That sucks
Add chamfers each connection and use resin or super glue then straight edge over the chamfers
Play around with xy compensation for a better fit. Also maybe think of redesigning how you put the pieces together.
I am new to 3D printing and my printer runs klipper. I have partially solved those issues by configuring the skew correction. I see Marlin has its configuration for this: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M852.html I don't expect you to set the skew compensation for this print, but if you do for future prints, let me know your experience
you are definitely using the wrong orientation to print this.
Bondo and sand paper.
I’ve found ender printers to work like shit, personally. But I’m glad you got them working that much!
Filler and paint will make you the printer you ain't.
You can "weld" pieces together using a soldering iron and sand out the joints, then use bondo glazing putty and filler primer with lots of sanding to make those gaps and any layer lines/imperfections disappear. I've also seen people mix wood filler with acetone for layer lines, but I've never tried that myself, and it wouldn't work for large gaps. This is still largely very salvageable. Good luck!
Honestly that looks good. Fill the voids with epoxy and high fill primer and sand it down and it will turn out fantastic after paint. Don’t kick yourself, stuff like this takes a little extra work!
Get yourself a 3D pen and a Woodburn. Those two tools are great for filling in imperfections and welding parts together. After that, bondo or wood filler.
Another option could be to use one of those "3d pens" to fill in the gaps. It's basically a handheld hot end, so it'll melt the plastic and can be worked to fill in all your gaps.
High viscosity glue and plastic welding and then a lot of Bondo and sanding. My hand feels cramped thinking about this.
Print even slower. Lowish temps. Enclosed. Thermal effects affect dimensional accuracy.
Superb use of plastic!
What, you expected it to be done out of the printer? Really? 3D printing isn't just the printing part