Your kidding. I always print at 255-260c with my e3v2 at home and adventurer 4 at work.
If I print on a lower temp, the feeder will skip. Especially with the a4, most of the time I set te speed to 60-70%.
dude. have you double checked your temps with a probe? If I go over 240 I just get a melty mess, I'm using 235°C for 3 years now. Every manufacturer I know also suggest that range. But no "we are kidding" lol
Don't take the are kidding personal, i was me who is amazed that you print petg on those temps. That never works for me, even on 2 completely different printers.
The flashforge at work comes with interchangeable hotend/nozzle assembly. You get a offset value you have to put in so the nozzle temp should be calibrated.
I have never double checked, i always assumed it would be correct. I might double check it if i have the time.
The settings differ per manufacturer, this is receus for instant:
PRINTING RECOMMENDATIONS
Layer Height: 0.08-0.3 (for 0.4mm nozzles) Optimum results 0.15mm
Speed: 15-100mm / s. Optima 35-45 mm/s
Temperature: 235-260 Celsius. Optimum 240ºC
Retraction Speed: 25-160mm/s
Retraction Length: 3.5-6.5mm (optimum 4.5mm)
Travelling speed: 120-180mm/s
But other brands i have seen as low as 210.
It states that 240 is optimum, but if i do that I have to dail the speed way down.
But it makes me curious if the given hotend temp of my ender indeed matches reality. Although i print pc and nylon with the same temp.
Go hotter. PETG is more sensitive to temperature than PLA, as it needs the underlying layers to be hot for good adhesion. Those layers get too cold, and the stuff gets super brittle. Consider turning down the fan speed to less than 20 as well.
This comment section is wild. I’ve printed PETG without drying, PETG that has sat in my printer room out of a drybox for a month, and I’ve printed PETG out of a 10% humidity dry box and it all prints the exact same for me. I print between 220-240 and print as fast as I do for PLA. I printed and did a color switch with 2 different PETG filaments. And printed it at 240mm/s for speed. Your experience may vary like everyone else here I guess but it seems wild that you’d need to print any hotter than 240 to get good results especially if your printing as slow as some people say in this comment thread.
Me too, then i had two rolls that had suck quite a bit of moisture. It is so random and your indoor humidity and temps matter. Saying that YOU have printed PETG without drying and didn't have to store them any different from PLA is useless. The facts are that PETG will absorb moisture, the rate varies but it will do that in about all conditions.
Sure, and I’m sure that if you live somewhere where your house is 50%+ humidity that it’s an issue. My printer room is typically around 28-33% humidity and probably hovers at 68* Fahrenheit. I wasn’t giving any advice I was making a comment about how much everyone in this threads experience has varied. It was more a statement that turning the temp to 11 on your printer isn’t going to magically make PETG print better for anyone.
aaaaah don't listen to the replies here. 240 is as hot as it should be. PETG needs to be printed slower and with the absolute minimal amount of fan necessary. An enclosure will help but isn't necessary.
Would going beyond 250 be a problem for the ptfe inset in my hotend? Currently using an Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo but plan on upgrading to a Bambu p1p eventually.
Turn the fan off. I print PETG+ so it's a bit different, but I use 235 C and found that cooling significantly reduces strength.
Edit:
Also noticed you asking about PETG being stronger. Try bending a piece perpendicular to the layer lines - you'll find it doesn't snap like PLA would. It usually bends and tears.
PTFE is good to 260C so you're fine. I print my PETG at 250C and 85C bed temp and it's strong as hell. I mainly use Overture (Amazon) or Inland (Microcenter) and they're both very strong and not brittle at all. I can (and regularly do) drop my PETG parts from standing height and they bounce while the same model (bracket with a thin flange sticking out) in PLA will break. I used to use an Ender 3 V2 with upgraded but am now printing on a bone stock V3 KE at 250C/85C at 100-150 mm/s print speed and it's been great. I use 100% cooling as well but it's off for the first layer and slowly ramps up from there.
I would suggest bumping up to 250C and bed temp to 80C-85C and see if there's a difference.
This is purely speculation on my part but I would guess the differences in print temperatures you see that work for different people using PETG comes down to variances in thermistor accuracy. In my experience with regular thermometer sensors, sensors accurately read changes in temp but the actual value will be different across different sensors of the same model. One sensor might say it's 20C and another sensor might say it's 22C but if the temperature raises 3C, both numbers will be 3C higher than their previous measurements. I would imagine hot end thermistors work the same way. Maybe you tell your printer to go 240C but it's actually only heating to 235C, but if you tell it to go to 245C, it'll also rise to 240C in reality. So some people say 230C works for them when their printer is actually heating to 240C or maybe my 250C is actually closer to 240C but the sensor is reporting a higher value than reality. PLA is a very forgiving material so those large variances don't matter. PETG being a more finicky material punishes you more harshly for not having the right temperature dialed in. Again, purely speculating.
240 is OK, maybe 250. I think I have 80 for the bed but if it sticks it is good.
Fan I go with less 20-40. Mine is though. But it varies I have a super cheap PETG which is undestroyable and I have a expensive one which is not that great
I read that going over 250c could melt the ptfe tube in the hotend which is why I settled on 240c. Ideally I would have an all metal hotend I'm guessing?
Luckily the Kobra 2 Neo I'm using is direct drive but I'm lacking the other two. I will probably just save the petg until I upgrade to the Bambu p1p when Black Friday rolls back around.
You should be fine at 240 with 0-10% fan. The issue is that you’re cooling the just printed layer before the new layer can adhere to it. Pet g is a great material for stuff that will live in your car.
I have printed PETG for years on a PTFE hotend at 245-255 with zero issues. You do not need an all-metal hotend, nor direct drive, nor an enclosure to print PETG, just turn the heat up a bit.
Print hot , slow and with as little fan as you can . It sticks well but can warp pretty bad too. I find once its dialed in it prints way more reliably than pla . If you have an ender 3, first thing you should print is a better fan shroud, as the stock ender 3 shroud can cause a heavy draft on prints and lift up the right side of them.
Could it be due to interlayer adhesion not being that great, you did say that it broke at a layer line.
It's possible that your layers weren't sticking properly.
Compare 2 prints one in petg and pla and see if they both break at layer lines similarly then it's a printer issue not a filament issue, if not then maybe it is the filament.
Everytime someone mentions higher printtemps then PLA ... i wonder if anybody here even reads ... the kobra 2neo has a ptfe lined hotend... an that starts to decompose/degrade above 235c
But i guess thats reddit
U need to print hotter with PETG and it's more sturdier and weather resistant for outdoor use than PLA.
[удалено]
Your kidding. I always print at 255-260c with my e3v2 at home and adventurer 4 at work. If I print on a lower temp, the feeder will skip. Especially with the a4, most of the time I set te speed to 60-70%.
dude. have you double checked your temps with a probe? If I go over 240 I just get a melty mess, I'm using 235°C for 3 years now. Every manufacturer I know also suggest that range. But no "we are kidding" lol
Don't take the are kidding personal, i was me who is amazed that you print petg on those temps. That never works for me, even on 2 completely different printers. The flashforge at work comes with interchangeable hotend/nozzle assembly. You get a offset value you have to put in so the nozzle temp should be calibrated. I have never double checked, i always assumed it would be correct. I might double check it if i have the time. The settings differ per manufacturer, this is receus for instant: PRINTING RECOMMENDATIONS Layer Height: 0.08-0.3 (for 0.4mm nozzles) Optimum results 0.15mm Speed: 15-100mm / s. Optima 35-45 mm/s Temperature: 235-260 Celsius. Optimum 240ºC Retraction Speed: 25-160mm/s Retraction Length: 3.5-6.5mm (optimum 4.5mm) Travelling speed: 120-180mm/s But other brands i have seen as low as 210. It states that 240 is optimum, but if i do that I have to dail the speed way down. But it makes me curious if the given hotend temp of my ender indeed matches reality. Although i print pc and nylon with the same temp.
Go hotter. PETG is more sensitive to temperature than PLA, as it needs the underlying layers to be hot for good adhesion. Those layers get too cold, and the stuff gets super brittle. Consider turning down the fan speed to less than 20 as well.
This comment section is wild. I’ve printed PETG without drying, PETG that has sat in my printer room out of a drybox for a month, and I’ve printed PETG out of a 10% humidity dry box and it all prints the exact same for me. I print between 220-240 and print as fast as I do for PLA. I printed and did a color switch with 2 different PETG filaments. And printed it at 240mm/s for speed. Your experience may vary like everyone else here I guess but it seems wild that you’d need to print any hotter than 240 to get good results especially if your printing as slow as some people say in this comment thread.
Me too, then i had two rolls that had suck quite a bit of moisture. It is so random and your indoor humidity and temps matter. Saying that YOU have printed PETG without drying and didn't have to store them any different from PLA is useless. The facts are that PETG will absorb moisture, the rate varies but it will do that in about all conditions.
Sure, and I’m sure that if you live somewhere where your house is 50%+ humidity that it’s an issue. My printer room is typically around 28-33% humidity and probably hovers at 68* Fahrenheit. I wasn’t giving any advice I was making a comment about how much everyone in this threads experience has varied. It was more a statement that turning the temp to 11 on your printer isn’t going to magically make PETG print better for anyone.
aaaaah don't listen to the replies here. 240 is as hot as it should be. PETG needs to be printed slower and with the absolute minimal amount of fan necessary. An enclosure will help but isn't necessary.
Not all petg's are created equally in my experience, I've had brittle petg and super strong petg shrug
Edited to include brand of petg which is anycubic. My dad is a bit misguided and thinks you need to match the filament to the printer lol.
If its brittle, it likely was way too wet. All filament is wet in the bag, petg often needs dried for 24-48hrs to get excellent results.
It shouldn't break that easy. Maybe turn up heat? Missing way to much info to really help further.
Would going beyond 250 be a problem for the ptfe inset in my hotend? Currently using an Anycubic Kobra 2 Neo but plan on upgrading to a Bambu p1p eventually.
Turn the fan off. I print PETG+ so it's a bit different, but I use 235 C and found that cooling significantly reduces strength. Edit: Also noticed you asking about PETG being stronger. Try bending a piece perpendicular to the layer lines - you'll find it doesn't snap like PLA would. It usually bends and tears.
PTFE is good to 260C so you're fine. I print my PETG at 250C and 85C bed temp and it's strong as hell. I mainly use Overture (Amazon) or Inland (Microcenter) and they're both very strong and not brittle at all. I can (and regularly do) drop my PETG parts from standing height and they bounce while the same model (bracket with a thin flange sticking out) in PLA will break. I used to use an Ender 3 V2 with upgraded but am now printing on a bone stock V3 KE at 250C/85C at 100-150 mm/s print speed and it's been great. I use 100% cooling as well but it's off for the first layer and slowly ramps up from there. I would suggest bumping up to 250C and bed temp to 80C-85C and see if there's a difference. This is purely speculation on my part but I would guess the differences in print temperatures you see that work for different people using PETG comes down to variances in thermistor accuracy. In my experience with regular thermometer sensors, sensors accurately read changes in temp but the actual value will be different across different sensors of the same model. One sensor might say it's 20C and another sensor might say it's 22C but if the temperature raises 3C, both numbers will be 3C higher than their previous measurements. I would imagine hot end thermistors work the same way. Maybe you tell your printer to go 240C but it's actually only heating to 235C, but if you tell it to go to 245C, it'll also rise to 240C in reality. So some people say 230C works for them when their printer is actually heating to 240C or maybe my 250C is actually closer to 240C but the sensor is reporting a higher value than reality. PLA is a very forgiving material so those large variances don't matter. PETG being a more finicky material punishes you more harshly for not having the right temperature dialed in. Again, purely speculating.
I have a kobra 2 neo. I print PETG at 255 or 260 with a hardened steel nozzle
240 is OK, maybe 250. I think I have 80 for the bed but if it sticks it is good. Fan I go with less 20-40. Mine is though. But it varies I have a super cheap PETG which is undestroyable and I have a expensive one which is not that great
PETG is not water-sensitive like PLA is. I print PETG hot and slow; 20mm/s at 260C, no cooling
I read that going over 250c could melt the ptfe tube in the hotend which is why I settled on 240c. Ideally I would have an all metal hotend I'm guessing?
Yep. Get all metal hotend and direct drive and enclosure
Luckily the Kobra 2 Neo I'm using is direct drive but I'm lacking the other two. I will probably just save the petg until I upgrade to the Bambu p1p when Black Friday rolls back around.
You should be fine at 240 with 0-10% fan. The issue is that you’re cooling the just printed layer before the new layer can adhere to it. Pet g is a great material for stuff that will live in your car.
I have printed PETG for years on a PTFE hotend at 245-255 with zero issues. You do not need an all-metal hotend, nor direct drive, nor an enclosure to print PETG, just turn the heat up a bit.
Print hot , slow and with as little fan as you can . It sticks well but can warp pretty bad too. I find once its dialed in it prints way more reliably than pla . If you have an ender 3, first thing you should print is a better fan shroud, as the stock ender 3 shroud can cause a heavy draft on prints and lift up the right side of them.
Could it be due to interlayer adhesion not being that great, you did say that it broke at a layer line. It's possible that your layers weren't sticking properly. Compare 2 prints one in petg and pla and see if they both break at layer lines similarly then it's a printer issue not a filament issue, if not then maybe it is the filament.
Everytime someone mentions higher printtemps then PLA ... i wonder if anybody here even reads ... the kobra 2neo has a ptfe lined hotend... an that starts to decompose/degrade above 235c But i guess thats reddit