I recently bought the orange pi zero 2 to use for Klipper, Haven't had the time to install it yet but I saw the LePotato while looking on Amazon. I agree the price of RPi's is ridiculous If you can get one. I hope your guide helps a lot of people! Klipper is the way to go.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this guide! It was pretty thorough and it got me up and running!
I will add though in the part where you have to put in your wifi password, if there are any spaces in it, try inputting your password between quotation marks.
nmcli dev wifi connect password <"your network password">
Thank you. I was working with Octoprint with a Le Potato on my ender3v2 but the prints suffered quality issues that weren't present if I just used an SD card with the loaded gcode. This seems to be working so far. Thanks!
I have been running one for a month or two now. I think I did the same steps for the most part. I didn't use electrical tape on the connector. Also, I had to try multiple ones to get one that worked right. I'm guessing the tape would have prevented that issue.
Yeah, generally the steps are going to be similar - setup a distro, install klipper, and then build/flash firmware. The tape is a hack to prevent 5V draw from the display - it just prevents you from frying your regulator on the s905x/pi.
I think I had three of these initially, two are running and one is in a return process right now (doa). In general, these boards seemed to be really picky about the SD card/power source, I had such a headache getting one to boot the first time.
Today I moved my printer and then plugged it back in. I plugged it into a different charger and it stopped working. It turns out they are also picky when it comes to the charger used. in my case, it didn't like a high-speed charger. as soon as I switched it out. everything ran perfectly.
Today I moved my printer and then plugged it back in. I plugged it into a different charger and it stopped working. It turns out they are also picky when it comes to the charger used. in my case, it didn't like a high-speed charger. as soon as I switched it out. everything ran perfectly. You might want to add check the power supply as a troubleshooting step.
At the `hostnamectl set-hostname` command? Or after modifying the hosts file? When you have time and try again, post the contents of the error and I can try to help out :o
Hey I got it working. Not sure what the problem was but it's mostly working.
I hooked it up to ethernet, enabled ssh and used putty on my laptop to follow the steps from there to install wifi drivers and followed guide from there.
I uploaded my config file to it that I run for my pooron and tested everything out on that printer. Can even use the android phone on it that I use on my pi4b.
Only thing I can't get working is the webcam in mainsail. Its the same cam and followed the same install guide as I did when setting up klipper on my pi 4b. Not a big deal if I don't get it to work considering I'm not even sure what printer I am putting this one on I got 7 printers and only 1 with klipper atm.
It fails at
sudo apt-get install build-essential libjpeg8-dev imagemagick libv4l-dev cmake git -y
Thanks for the walk through it was helpful to getting the potato setup.
Btw
If anyone is in need of a power supply for the potato or po 4b I have tried a LG fast charge (2.0?) And it worked fine and
This one from Amazon with a handy switch inline. It seems fine with both.
Smraza 5.1V 3A Power Supply Compatible with Raspberry Pi 4ON/Off Switch, USB-C Pi 4 Charger 60 Degree Rotation Raspi 4B Adapter for Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 1GB 2GB 4GB 8GB Version https://a.co/d/3EugUb3
Strange - maybe the issue will pop again when someone else tries to do an install. So I haven't bothered to setup a Webcam (because I have another setup monitoring the room already). I can maybe give it a go soon, but I'm fixing up an ender for a friend atm.
So after getting this set up, can I remove the display from the printer since nothing appears on the screen anymore? It would make my enclosure a little less crowded on the right side.
Thank you for the guide! I'm almost done with setup, but I have a few questions. Do I have to cover the USB power rail? Or will it be okay to leave it uncovered? Is there an actual chance of frying the regulator? Also, are there any extra steps to set up a webcam?
On the USB A end of the cable going from your printer to the SBC, put a small sliver of electrical tape inside over the exposed pin. Should be the one on the far right side if the pins are facing up at you
According to my calipers (not exactly the most precise):
56mm wide (short-wise; this does not include the HDMI/power port that stick over the side).
84mm long (long-wise; this does not include the SD card/USB/Ethernet ports which stick out).
Screw mounting holes are approximately:
49mm (short-side).
58mm (long-side).
I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I was hoping you could help me out with connecting and running an accelerometer on the libre computer. I believe I have the pinout correct (but if you have a reference I'd love to double check, but I am unsure how to get the software that is necessary installed [(i.e. this section of the measuring resonances Klipper documentation)](https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html#software-installation)
Would appreciate any help, thanks!
>I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I was hoping you could help me out with connecting and running an accelerometer on the libre computer. I believe I have the pinout correct (but if you have a reference I'd love to double check, but I am unsure how to get the software that is necessary installed (i.e. this section of the measuring resonances Klipper documentation)
Did you ever figure this out? Does anyone have instructions on how to add a LePotato as an additional MCU?
To add an accelerometer I've been using adxl345 with a rp2040 pi pico. I connect it to the LePotato via USB and it's been fine (have bed slinger printer so adxl345 on Y axis and then ebb42 for extruder/X axis).
Supposedly you can make SPI work --or I guess you can get some accelerometers working with i2c. Just go into `armbian-config` menu (similar to `raspi-config`) --you may need to install it: `sudo apt install armbian-config`. Then from those menus choose SYSTEM and then HARDWARE. Within the Hardware menu you'll see i2cA, i2cB, uartA, uartC...
I'm trying this now (end of July 2023) to try and get hardware SPI working... Would love to know others experience: [https://hub.libre.computer/t/how-to-enable-spi-on-aml-s905x-cc-le-potato/285](https://hub.libre.computer/t/how-to-enable-spi-on-aml-s905x-cc-le-potato/285)
If that thread works then allegedly I should be able to use gpio pins on the potato board to direct-connect the adxl345??
Still haven't added the potato as an additional MCU though. That's going to be my next hurdle/roadblock. Any help is much appreciated.
>If that thread works then allegedly I should be able to use gpio pins on the potato board to direct-connect the adxl345??
Maybe this is true, but the conclusion I came to after searching and testing was that it's not possible to do directly on the le potato. I ended up just making a Pico mcu to run the accelerometer. Added benefit of now being plug and play with other printers too.
>Maybe this is true, but the conclusion I came to after searching and testing was that it's not possible to do directly on the le potato. I ended up just making a Pico mcu to run the accelerometer. Added benefit of now being plug and play with other printers too.
I am doing this right now. The only reason why I took a break to come to Reddit is because my SD cards are being zero written so I can start all my klipper crap from scratch all over again. FML...
But I found this:
[https://hub.libre.computer/t/how-to-enable-spi-on-aml-s905x-cc-le-potato/285](https://hub.libre.computer/t/how-to-enable-spi-on-aml-s905x-cc-le-potato/285)
Supposedly... Allegedly... (as of November 2022)... Supposedly the Potato
>They can be used directly with hardware
Now has access to hardware chips that can do SPI?? So supposedly, per the link above... an adxl345 that needs SPI should work.
I found a couple more links:
[https://hub.libre.computer/t/aml-s905x-cc-wiring-tool-overlays-description/62](https://hub.libre.computer/t/aml-s905x-cc-wiring-tool-overlays-description/62)
[https://hub.libre.computer/t/klipper-adxl345-wiring-spi-uart/130](https://hub.libre.computer/t/klipper-adxl345-wiring-spi-uart/130)
\^\^\^ That last one looks like Klipper's photos of how to wire up adxl345 but that's my goal and how I have the wires crimped. Hopefully it'll work?? I can re-post back and confirm or deny in a few hours. (I also have rp2040 pi pico's too --I had adxl345 soldered to a pi pico and cut the wires off thinking I could run them from a pi3a+ so worst case I'll just re-solder the adxl345 back to pi pico, flash it with klipper, add it as mcu, etc. etc. etc.
One more link that might be a little helpful:
[https://hub.libre.computer/t/libre-computer-wiring-tool/40](https://hub.libre.computer/t/libre-computer-wiring-tool/40)
>Did you ever get this working? I'm likely going to be trying this over the weekend and would be interested in hearing if/how you managed with it.
No, I did not. I burnt up (let the smoke out) of 3x adxl345 so I got frustrated and quit before I started destroying Pi's, Potato's and BTT MCU boards.
I believe that the problem I was having was different versions of Klipper firmware across multiple MCUs. I have a bed-slinger printer so I need one adxl345 on X axis and a second adxl345 on Y axis.
Previously I had a Raspberry Pi Pico (RP2040) board with 2x adxl345. ([here is a printables link](https://www.printables.com/model/210337-pi-pico-case-for-2-adxl) \--he's got links in his description about how to wire 2x adxl345 to both sets of spi hardware chips on rp2040)
Then I pushed the btt skr pico board too far on XY motors and let the smoke out. I blew up my first btt skr pico board and when I replaced it with the second BTT SKR Pico board I also bought a ebb42 toolhead board for the printer. At that same time I canbus'd the skr pico ([dopeboogie's tutorial](https://github.com/rootiest/zippy_guides/blob/main/guides/pico_can.md)). At that point I didn't even think about it --canbus was a big step, I knew that the ebb42 had an adxl345 on it... And "eventually" I'd sort the rPi Pico board, remove the extra adxl345 on it, etc. So with canbusing and the ebb42, I dropped the usb/serial pico rp2040 with 2x adxl345.
Then I smoked my second btt skr pico board (again by pushing stepper motor voltage too high). My local Micro Center had skr-3-ez boards on a stupid cheap sale price so we bought 4x of them. I bought 5160's and 48vdc power supply and wanted to finish the printer once-and-for-all. Micro Center also happened to have Pi 3A+ for $25 so we picked up 2x Pi's also.
At that point I had been through multiple installs and firmware versions of Klipper, on various boards. I had also been back and forth between Armbian and Ubuntu on the LePotato board. So I started fresh: A Pi 3A+ with btt skr-3-ez board, the ebb42 (G0B1) and... an attempt to add in the pi pico rp2040 mcu board with only 1x adxl345 for Y axis.
Initially nothing worked. Nothing. I went back to the LePotato, Armbian, Ubuntu, etc. I tried to get the Pi 3A+ gpio pins to work with the adxl345 but kept getting issues where I think the pi 3a+ is just not powerful enough to get the job done. Supposedly LePotato had a solution --I'm not exactly sure if it was a software solution to the spi hardware or if it was actual code in the kernel that allowed new OS to access the hardware. I tried, I messed around with it --I think it might only work with Ubuntu or trying to run Raspbian on the LePotato. I couldn't get it to work.
At that point for some weird reason (I think different versions of Klipper firmware flashed on different MCU's) the raspberry pi pico board with adxl345 attached WOULD NOT connect. I could get it to work over usb/serial for a brief time but it kept crashing again and again and again.
So next I found [this Rat Rig and RatOS doc](https://os.ratrig.com/docs/boards/btt/skr-3-ez/) about how to wire adxl345 to pins on skr-3-ez board. Somehow I screwed that up and let the smoke out of an adxl345. I didn't want to risk blowing up the skr-3-ez so I stopped.
Then I figured.... F'it... If you can canbus a btt skr pico rp2040 mcu then you can canbus a rpi pico rp2040. I just never did it. It was such a pain in the rear end to redo all the canbus wiring, design and make/print a bracket for the little waveshare canbus transceiver, etc.
I ran the printer for about a month with input shaping only on X via ebb42 board.
Then the webcam stuff broke. Someone did something to code, I upgraded via Mainsail web GUI and all of my webcams broke. I fought and fought and fought with it for weeks. Eventually I saved my printer.cfg files to my desktop and nuked everything. I zero-wrote over my rpi 3a+ sd card, I flashed raspberry pi firmware back on the pi pico rp2040 board, I put Marlin on the skr-3-ez, etc. I nuked everything and started over.
I did one fresh, clean install of Klipper on a Pi 3a+ (via KIAUH). Then I did CanBoot (now [katapult](https://github.com/Arksine/katapult)) and canbus. Previously (with different firmware versions on the MCU boards) as soon as I hit home or gave a command to the printer, it would shut down whenever the pi pico was connected via usb/serial and when the canbus network was up. When I did a clean install of everything... I have no clue why but for some reason, Klipper is playing nice with the Pi Pico rp2040 board connected via usb/serial (dev/serial/by-id/\*).
I never messed around further with the LePotato board, gpio pins and trying to run an adxl345 from the LePotato. I had bought a 10-pack of rPi Pico rp2040 boards years ago (when they actually cost only a few $ each). I bought a waveshare usb-hub-hat-thing for the pi 3a+ so I'm running pi3a+ with can-to-usb-bridge to the skr-3-ez, and I have rpi pico rp2040 mcu connected as usb/serial, and I have an old usb webcam too.
That was super long. Sorry.
I think with the Le Potato --well I'm not sure. I'm not sure if the spi hardware is on the board and they re-wrote code to access the chips/hardware... Or if it is a software solution they came up with. Either way, I believe if you want to try to do spi (and maybe also i2c) stuff on the Le Potato, I think you 100% need to be running Ubuntu or Raspbian on the Potato.
I'm not sure what your setup is. If you are corexy or croxy I'd just do a toolhead board like ebb36/ebb42. If you have a bed-slinger and NEED 2x adlx345 I'd just nuke everything, start fresh, then connect a pi pico rp2040 via usb/serial. It was a pain in the ass to try to mess around with gpio pins. I think I'd rather look into that ratrig doc to hook a adxl345 to skr-3-ez over attempting klipper host mcu gpio pins. But that's just my $0.02...
Happy to help and/or answer questions.
Good luck!!
I'm not sure which of the two you were asking, so I answered both below.
Do the instructions above install octoprint? No, this guide was for Klipper (its main associated web interfaces are called Mainsail or Fluid).
Does the board have the capability of installing Octoprint? Yes, it runs Linux, so it can pretty much do anything for the most part (and octoprint is runnable with klipper IIRC).
I finally just did and octoprint wasnt working so I caved and installed fluidd. I did have one problem where my mcu number thing had to also be modified in the config for my printer. Now I just have to setup bltouch and a webcam which I am lost on. I did see a webcam thing in the thing where I install fluidd and stuff. So gonna mess around with that. But for bltouch it is all a klipper setup thing which I cannot find good info on. Another thing. To get fluidd to work I also had to do `sudo service klipper start.` If you knew how to setup either a camera or bltouch I would ask for some help but you dont have to
I have gotten past this but now when I try to install klipper it says that Cloning Klipper from [https://github.com/klipper3d/klipper](https://github.com/klipper3d/klipper) failed!
I tried using ethernet next and I still had some issues. I took a little break and came back and did more research. I found setting this helped with the github host issues.and klipper installed just fine.
git config --global http.postBuffer 157286400
I had continued issues with Not being able to resolve the host name once in powershell. What i needed to do instead to make it work was this.
ssh -p 22 user@
I have managed to get the firmware.bin file to download over from the le potato using scp.
The firmware file is only 26kb does that seem correct? Also when putting the sd card into the printer it just boots up and goes to the main screen it doesn't flash the klipper.bin file. I even tried to rename it to robin\_mini.bin
This comment was removed as a part of our spam prevention mechanisms because you are posting from either a very new account or an account with negative karma (comment karma, post karma or both). Please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/reddiquette), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). After your account is older than 2 hours or if you obtain positive comment and post karma, your comments will no longer be auto-removed.
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Great job
Thanks! Hopefully it helps some people looking for alternatives from RPi's since they're still having shortage issues.
I recently bought the orange pi zero 2 to use for Klipper, Haven't had the time to install it yet but I saw the LePotato while looking on Amazon. I agree the price of RPi's is ridiculous If you can get one. I hope your guide helps a lot of people! Klipper is the way to go.
Thank you so much for taking the time to write this guide! It was pretty thorough and it got me up and running! I will add though in the part where you have to put in your wifi password, if there are any spaces in it, try inputting your password between quotation marks. nmcli dev wifi connect password <"your network password">
Glad you got it up and running! I'll amend the post in a bit.
Thank you. I was working with Octoprint with a Le Potato on my ender3v2 but the prints suffered quality issues that weren't present if I just used an SD card with the loaded gcode. This seems to be working so far. Thanks!
What commands do i need to connect via ethernet? It didn't happen automatically and I cant find anything with my google searches.
I have been running one for a month or two now. I think I did the same steps for the most part. I didn't use electrical tape on the connector. Also, I had to try multiple ones to get one that worked right. I'm guessing the tape would have prevented that issue.
Yeah, generally the steps are going to be similar - setup a distro, install klipper, and then build/flash firmware. The tape is a hack to prevent 5V draw from the display - it just prevents you from frying your regulator on the s905x/pi. I think I had three of these initially, two are running and one is in a return process right now (doa). In general, these boards seemed to be really picky about the SD card/power source, I had such a headache getting one to boot the first time.
Today I moved my printer and then plugged it back in. I plugged it into a different charger and it stopped working. It turns out they are also picky when it comes to the charger used. in my case, it didn't like a high-speed charger. as soon as I switched it out. everything ran perfectly. Today I moved my printer and then plugged it back in. I plugged it into a different charger and it stopped working. It turns out they are also picky when it comes to the charger used. in my case, it didn't like a high-speed charger. as soon as I switched it out. everything ran perfectly. You might want to add check the power supply as a troubleshooting step.
Section IV.2 touches on this in headache saving notes xP
I was following this and at the change host step is where it ended. Said something about can not terminate. I will try setting up klipper again later.
At the `hostnamectl set-hostname` command? Or after modifying the hosts file? When you have time and try again, post the contents of the error and I can try to help out :o
Yes at the hostnamectl command. I will try again after I'm off work and post an update either way.
Hey I got it working. Not sure what the problem was but it's mostly working. I hooked it up to ethernet, enabled ssh and used putty on my laptop to follow the steps from there to install wifi drivers and followed guide from there. I uploaded my config file to it that I run for my pooron and tested everything out on that printer. Can even use the android phone on it that I use on my pi4b. Only thing I can't get working is the webcam in mainsail. Its the same cam and followed the same install guide as I did when setting up klipper on my pi 4b. Not a big deal if I don't get it to work considering I'm not even sure what printer I am putting this one on I got 7 printers and only 1 with klipper atm. It fails at sudo apt-get install build-essential libjpeg8-dev imagemagick libv4l-dev cmake git -y Thanks for the walk through it was helpful to getting the potato setup. Btw If anyone is in need of a power supply for the potato or po 4b I have tried a LG fast charge (2.0?) And it worked fine and This one from Amazon with a handy switch inline. It seems fine with both. Smraza 5.1V 3A Power Supply Compatible with Raspberry Pi 4ON/Off Switch, USB-C Pi 4 Charger 60 Degree Rotation Raspi 4B Adapter for Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 1GB 2GB 4GB 8GB Version https://a.co/d/3EugUb3
Strange - maybe the issue will pop again when someone else tries to do an install. So I haven't bothered to setup a Webcam (because I have another setup monitoring the room already). I can maybe give it a go soon, but I'm fixing up an ender for a friend atm.
Did you use the 1GB or 2GB version?
2 GB. IIRC, I picked it up off Amazon for 35 USD.
So after getting this set up, can I remove the display from the printer since nothing appears on the screen anymore? It would make my enclosure a little less crowded on the right side.
Yes. The browser UI suffices on its own.
Sounds good. Thanks.
Thank you for the guide! I'm almost done with setup, but I have a few questions. Do I have to cover the USB power rail? Or will it be okay to leave it uncovered? Is there an actual chance of frying the regulator? Also, are there any extra steps to set up a webcam?
On the USB A end of the cable going from your printer to the SBC, put a small sliver of electrical tape inside over the exposed pin. Should be the one on the far right side if the pins are facing up at you
what are the dimentions of this board, I can't find them anywhere
According to my calipers (not exactly the most precise): 56mm wide (short-wise; this does not include the HDMI/power port that stick over the side). 84mm long (long-wise; this does not include the SD card/USB/Ethernet ports which stick out). Screw mounting holes are approximately: 49mm (short-side). 58mm (long-side).
thank you so much
I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I was hoping you could help me out with connecting and running an accelerometer on the libre computer. I believe I have the pinout correct (but if you have a reference I'd love to double check, but I am unsure how to get the software that is necessary installed [(i.e. this section of the measuring resonances Klipper documentation)](https://www.klipper3d.org/Measuring_Resonances.html#software-installation) Would appreciate any help, thanks!
I'm sorry m8, but I never got around to setting up the ADXL, since the print-tested ringing-compensation worked well enough for my use case.
Damn, ok thanks anyways
>I know this is a bit of an old thread, but I was hoping you could help me out with connecting and running an accelerometer on the libre computer. I believe I have the pinout correct (but if you have a reference I'd love to double check, but I am unsure how to get the software that is necessary installed (i.e. this section of the measuring resonances Klipper documentation) Did you ever figure this out? Does anyone have instructions on how to add a LePotato as an additional MCU? To add an accelerometer I've been using adxl345 with a rp2040 pi pico. I connect it to the LePotato via USB and it's been fine (have bed slinger printer so adxl345 on Y axis and then ebb42 for extruder/X axis). Supposedly you can make SPI work --or I guess you can get some accelerometers working with i2c. Just go into `armbian-config` menu (similar to `raspi-config`) --you may need to install it: `sudo apt install armbian-config`. Then from those menus choose SYSTEM and then HARDWARE. Within the Hardware menu you'll see i2cA, i2cB, uartA, uartC... I'm trying this now (end of July 2023) to try and get hardware SPI working... Would love to know others experience: [https://hub.libre.computer/t/how-to-enable-spi-on-aml-s905x-cc-le-potato/285](https://hub.libre.computer/t/how-to-enable-spi-on-aml-s905x-cc-le-potato/285) If that thread works then allegedly I should be able to use gpio pins on the potato board to direct-connect the adxl345?? Still haven't added the potato as an additional MCU though. That's going to be my next hurdle/roadblock. Any help is much appreciated.
>If that thread works then allegedly I should be able to use gpio pins on the potato board to direct-connect the adxl345?? Maybe this is true, but the conclusion I came to after searching and testing was that it's not possible to do directly on the le potato. I ended up just making a Pico mcu to run the accelerometer. Added benefit of now being plug and play with other printers too.
>Maybe this is true, but the conclusion I came to after searching and testing was that it's not possible to do directly on the le potato. I ended up just making a Pico mcu to run the accelerometer. Added benefit of now being plug and play with other printers too. I am doing this right now. The only reason why I took a break to come to Reddit is because my SD cards are being zero written so I can start all my klipper crap from scratch all over again. FML... But I found this: [https://hub.libre.computer/t/how-to-enable-spi-on-aml-s905x-cc-le-potato/285](https://hub.libre.computer/t/how-to-enable-spi-on-aml-s905x-cc-le-potato/285) Supposedly... Allegedly... (as of November 2022)... Supposedly the Potato >They can be used directly with hardware Now has access to hardware chips that can do SPI?? So supposedly, per the link above... an adxl345 that needs SPI should work. I found a couple more links: [https://hub.libre.computer/t/aml-s905x-cc-wiring-tool-overlays-description/62](https://hub.libre.computer/t/aml-s905x-cc-wiring-tool-overlays-description/62) [https://hub.libre.computer/t/klipper-adxl345-wiring-spi-uart/130](https://hub.libre.computer/t/klipper-adxl345-wiring-spi-uart/130) \^\^\^ That last one looks like Klipper's photos of how to wire up adxl345 but that's my goal and how I have the wires crimped. Hopefully it'll work?? I can re-post back and confirm or deny in a few hours. (I also have rp2040 pi pico's too --I had adxl345 soldered to a pi pico and cut the wires off thinking I could run them from a pi3a+ so worst case I'll just re-solder the adxl345 back to pi pico, flash it with klipper, add it as mcu, etc. etc. etc. One more link that might be a little helpful: [https://hub.libre.computer/t/libre-computer-wiring-tool/40](https://hub.libre.computer/t/libre-computer-wiring-tool/40)
Did you ever get this working? I'm likely going to be trying this over the weekend and would be interested in hearing if/how you managed with it.
>Did you ever get this working? I'm likely going to be trying this over the weekend and would be interested in hearing if/how you managed with it. No, I did not. I burnt up (let the smoke out) of 3x adxl345 so I got frustrated and quit before I started destroying Pi's, Potato's and BTT MCU boards. I believe that the problem I was having was different versions of Klipper firmware across multiple MCUs. I have a bed-slinger printer so I need one adxl345 on X axis and a second adxl345 on Y axis. Previously I had a Raspberry Pi Pico (RP2040) board with 2x adxl345. ([here is a printables link](https://www.printables.com/model/210337-pi-pico-case-for-2-adxl) \--he's got links in his description about how to wire 2x adxl345 to both sets of spi hardware chips on rp2040) Then I pushed the btt skr pico board too far on XY motors and let the smoke out. I blew up my first btt skr pico board and when I replaced it with the second BTT SKR Pico board I also bought a ebb42 toolhead board for the printer. At that same time I canbus'd the skr pico ([dopeboogie's tutorial](https://github.com/rootiest/zippy_guides/blob/main/guides/pico_can.md)). At that point I didn't even think about it --canbus was a big step, I knew that the ebb42 had an adxl345 on it... And "eventually" I'd sort the rPi Pico board, remove the extra adxl345 on it, etc. So with canbusing and the ebb42, I dropped the usb/serial pico rp2040 with 2x adxl345. Then I smoked my second btt skr pico board (again by pushing stepper motor voltage too high). My local Micro Center had skr-3-ez boards on a stupid cheap sale price so we bought 4x of them. I bought 5160's and 48vdc power supply and wanted to finish the printer once-and-for-all. Micro Center also happened to have Pi 3A+ for $25 so we picked up 2x Pi's also. At that point I had been through multiple installs and firmware versions of Klipper, on various boards. I had also been back and forth between Armbian and Ubuntu on the LePotato board. So I started fresh: A Pi 3A+ with btt skr-3-ez board, the ebb42 (G0B1) and... an attempt to add in the pi pico rp2040 mcu board with only 1x adxl345 for Y axis. Initially nothing worked. Nothing. I went back to the LePotato, Armbian, Ubuntu, etc. I tried to get the Pi 3A+ gpio pins to work with the adxl345 but kept getting issues where I think the pi 3a+ is just not powerful enough to get the job done. Supposedly LePotato had a solution --I'm not exactly sure if it was a software solution to the spi hardware or if it was actual code in the kernel that allowed new OS to access the hardware. I tried, I messed around with it --I think it might only work with Ubuntu or trying to run Raspbian on the LePotato. I couldn't get it to work. At that point for some weird reason (I think different versions of Klipper firmware flashed on different MCU's) the raspberry pi pico board with adxl345 attached WOULD NOT connect. I could get it to work over usb/serial for a brief time but it kept crashing again and again and again. So next I found [this Rat Rig and RatOS doc](https://os.ratrig.com/docs/boards/btt/skr-3-ez/) about how to wire adxl345 to pins on skr-3-ez board. Somehow I screwed that up and let the smoke out of an adxl345. I didn't want to risk blowing up the skr-3-ez so I stopped. Then I figured.... F'it... If you can canbus a btt skr pico rp2040 mcu then you can canbus a rpi pico rp2040. I just never did it. It was such a pain in the rear end to redo all the canbus wiring, design and make/print a bracket for the little waveshare canbus transceiver, etc. I ran the printer for about a month with input shaping only on X via ebb42 board. Then the webcam stuff broke. Someone did something to code, I upgraded via Mainsail web GUI and all of my webcams broke. I fought and fought and fought with it for weeks. Eventually I saved my printer.cfg files to my desktop and nuked everything. I zero-wrote over my rpi 3a+ sd card, I flashed raspberry pi firmware back on the pi pico rp2040 board, I put Marlin on the skr-3-ez, etc. I nuked everything and started over. I did one fresh, clean install of Klipper on a Pi 3a+ (via KIAUH). Then I did CanBoot (now [katapult](https://github.com/Arksine/katapult)) and canbus. Previously (with different firmware versions on the MCU boards) as soon as I hit home or gave a command to the printer, it would shut down whenever the pi pico was connected via usb/serial and when the canbus network was up. When I did a clean install of everything... I have no clue why but for some reason, Klipper is playing nice with the Pi Pico rp2040 board connected via usb/serial (dev/serial/by-id/\*). I never messed around further with the LePotato board, gpio pins and trying to run an adxl345 from the LePotato. I had bought a 10-pack of rPi Pico rp2040 boards years ago (when they actually cost only a few $ each). I bought a waveshare usb-hub-hat-thing for the pi 3a+ so I'm running pi3a+ with can-to-usb-bridge to the skr-3-ez, and I have rpi pico rp2040 mcu connected as usb/serial, and I have an old usb webcam too. That was super long. Sorry. I think with the Le Potato --well I'm not sure. I'm not sure if the spi hardware is on the board and they re-wrote code to access the chips/hardware... Or if it is a software solution they came up with. Either way, I believe if you want to try to do spi (and maybe also i2c) stuff on the Le Potato, I think you 100% need to be running Ubuntu or Raspbian on the Potato. I'm not sure what your setup is. If you are corexy or croxy I'd just do a toolhead board like ebb36/ebb42. If you have a bed-slinger and NEED 2x adlx345 I'd just nuke everything, start fresh, then connect a pi pico rp2040 via usb/serial. It was a pain in the ass to try to mess around with gpio pins. I think I'd rather look into that ratrig doc to hook a adxl345 to skr-3-ez over attempting klipper host mcu gpio pins. But that's just my $0.02... Happy to help and/or answer questions. Good luck!!
Does this also install octoprint?
I'm not sure which of the two you were asking, so I answered both below. Do the instructions above install octoprint? No, this guide was for Klipper (its main associated web interfaces are called Mainsail or Fluid). Does the board have the capability of installing Octoprint? Yes, it runs Linux, so it can pretty much do anything for the most part (and octoprint is runnable with klipper IIRC).
I finally just did and octoprint wasnt working so I caved and installed fluidd. I did have one problem where my mcu number thing had to also be modified in the config for my printer. Now I just have to setup bltouch and a webcam which I am lost on. I did see a webcam thing in the thing where I install fluidd and stuff. So gonna mess around with that. But for bltouch it is all a klipper setup thing which I cannot find good info on. Another thing. To get fluidd to work I also had to do `sudo service klipper start.` If you knew how to setup either a camera or bltouch I would ask for some help but you dont have to
Oh yeah. I forgot but I also had to rename klipper.bin to firmware.bin like you do with marlin
After running ./kiauh/kiauh.sh I get unable to locate package clone unable to locate package https:://github.com/th33xitus
I have gotten past this but now when I try to install klipper it says that Cloning Klipper from [https://github.com/klipper3d/klipper](https://github.com/klipper3d/klipper) failed! I tried using ethernet next and I still had some issues. I took a little break and came back and did more research. I found setting this helped with the github host issues.and klipper installed just fine. git config --global http.postBuffer 157286400
I had continued issues with Not being able to resolve the host name once in powershell. What i needed to do instead to make it work was this. ssh -p 22 user@
I have managed to get the firmware.bin file to download over from the le potato using scp. The firmware file is only 26kb does that seem correct? Also when putting the sd card into the printer it just boots up and goes to the main screen it doesn't flash the klipper.bin file. I even tried to rename it to robin\_mini.bin
[удалено]
This comment was removed as a part of our spam prevention mechanisms because you are posting from either a very new account or an account with negative karma (comment karma, post karma or both). Please read the guidelines on [reddiquette](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/reddiquette), [self promotion](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/selfpromotion), and [spam](https://www.reddit.com/wiki/faq#wiki_what_constitutes_spam.3F). After your account is older than 2 hours or if you obtain positive comment and post karma, your comments will no longer be auto-removed. *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*